Last fall I was introduced to Professor Britt Yamamoto, who teaches at class master’s level class on the Politics of Food & Eating. Within seconds, I prodded him with questions about the class. "What topics are you covering? What's the required reading? How is the class structured?" He escaped my questions (read: interrogation) by sending me a copy of the syllabus.
Class readings probed serious issues surrounding agribusiness, sustainability, food sovereignty, biotechnology, and commodified food.
The class culminated with an assignment titled “The Interpretive Feast." Students were instructed to "explore your deeply embedded, largely unexamined personal eating narratives and recognize how these are linked to the broader social phenomena….Consider the broader scope of culture, history, politics, and economics.”
With that basis, students were asked to incorporate these ideas by preparing a dish that had meaning for them. This interactive assignment culled from a number of sources, including family traditions and favorite foods, using significance as a guideline.
I scored an invitation to the Interpretive Feast and on a drizzly morning, arrived at Professor Yamamoto's house. In the kitchen, a small group of students assembled their final preparations while I waited in the wings.
I've attempted to capture the experience in words at least a dozen times. Each attempt, my words ring more feeble than the first, but what I can say is that day had a profound impact on the way I look at food. I began to realize that every dish has meaning and it's as deeply personal as the person who prepared it. From the scones inspired by the mother-daughter tea in London, to authentic wild rice that still carries the scent of Minnesota lakes...and home, to the memories of family hunting camps and melt-in-your-mouth elk stew, food is a powerful thing. It ties us to the land and the people. It shapes our memories, provides comfort, and a link to our history. Food is so much more than mere consumption.
And then there's the story that moved me to tears. Fleeing Nazi occupation, a young Jewish girl abruptly left her homeland. She lost her siblings and all links to the past…except for her challah recipe. Over the course of her young life, every Friday she kneaded the dough. The recipe went hand in hand with the evening prayers, and this she knew by heart.
Class readings probed serious issues surrounding agribusiness, sustainability, food sovereignty, biotechnology, and commodified food.
The class culminated with an assignment titled “The Interpretive Feast." Students were instructed to "explore your deeply embedded, largely unexamined personal eating narratives and recognize how these are linked to the broader social phenomena….Consider the broader scope of culture, history, politics, and economics.”
With that basis, students were asked to incorporate these ideas by preparing a dish that had meaning for them. This interactive assignment culled from a number of sources, including family traditions and favorite foods, using significance as a guideline.
I scored an invitation to the Interpretive Feast and on a drizzly morning, arrived at Professor Yamamoto's house. In the kitchen, a small group of students assembled their final preparations while I waited in the wings.
I've attempted to capture the experience in words at least a dozen times. Each attempt, my words ring more feeble than the first, but what I can say is that day had a profound impact on the way I look at food. I began to realize that every dish has meaning and it's as deeply personal as the person who prepared it. From the scones inspired by the mother-daughter tea in London, to authentic wild rice that still carries the scent of Minnesota lakes...and home, to the memories of family hunting camps and melt-in-your-mouth elk stew, food is a powerful thing. It ties us to the land and the people. It shapes our memories, provides comfort, and a link to our history. Food is so much more than mere consumption.
And then there's the story that moved me to tears. Fleeing Nazi occupation, a young Jewish girl abruptly left her homeland. She lost her siblings and all links to the past…except for her challah recipe. Over the course of her young life, every Friday she kneaded the dough. The recipe went hand in hand with the evening prayers, and this she knew by heart.

Flash forward 50+ years.
On a rain-soaked day in North Seattle, her granddaughter wove the pieces together with her own story. Her own life took a wayward path of rebellion and drugs, which had a powerful hold. An unexpected pregnancy proved to be a turning point. She kicked the drug habit and eventually made her way back to college. Along the way, she became curious about her heritage, and discovered her family’s Jewish traditions. The undercurrent of a rebel bubbles to the surface as she describes her faith--subscribing to those traditions that resonated and cast off those that didn’t. The challah became a powerful symbol…uniting these two women, present and past.
Every Friday, she makes challah for the Sabbath…with a recipe handed down from her grandmother. Today, her own daughter helps kneed the bread. Friends stop by and take a turn. From the traditions of the past, we erect our own traditions.
Blessing the breadFlour, yeast and water symbolize so much more than their individual components. History, culture, faith, traditions…old and new, weave a web, uniting the past with the present.

Thanks to this experience, I’ve become much more reflective. Food isn’t just food anymore. I think about the stories, the traditions, and the people that had a hand in this food.
My everyday life is not always about the grass-fed beef raised on Tom Hartley’s farm, trimmed into steaks by an artisan butcher who has been working at the family business since he was 6 years old.
I recall my own family traditions…like tuna-noodle casserole, oozing with Velveeta cheese and crushed potato chips on top (the wavy kind, if we were lucky). This dish is a link to my own past, and present. As a kid, it was one of our most requested meals. But now, as an adult striving to be a more conscientious eater, I shudder to think how often I ate tuna noodle casserole…and the revolt that would follow if my mother used anything but Velveeta. (“Cheddar? How could you use cheddar?”)
Much to my grandmother’s distain, my mother was the first woman to hold a job in our family. She was the first to grapple with the precarious balancing act…juggling between the demands of work and family. Tuna noodle casserole was quick and easy. Mom could satisfy me, the youngest in the family, and still keep it hot while waiting for my brother to come home from football practice, or for my dad to drag himself home from a business trip. Thanks to tuna noodle casserole, we each enjoyed a hot meal…whenever we made our way to the table. And as I grew older, I learned, that’s no easy feat.
Each meal, we are presented with an opportunity for an interpretive feast. Whether you’re recalling traditions, or making new ones, think about it. This meal…what does it say about you?
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11 comments:
A good friend of mine teaches a writing course at UCSC called "The Meaning of Food." She is the mother of a former UCSC Farm apprentice, Joe, who now farms at Dirty Girl Farm in Santa Cruz. She brings him and other farmers/ranchers/food folks to her classes, and brings her classes to the farmers markets, etc.
I bet she would love to see the syllabus: can you share it? (I'd love to see it, myself!)
Hey Lady,
I am currently in the process of applying for grade school teaching jobs and would love to see any ideas you have on food/cooking in the grade school classroom in September. I'm not sure how forward/backward the US is compared to the UK so any input would be fab.
BTW, You are such an amazing woman. I love you and miss you so much.
xxxxx
Tana -
I love the idea of a college writing class around the topic, "The Meaning of Food." How cool is that? And why didn't they teach that when I was in college?!
We recently hosted a series of dinners with Carrie Oliver from the Oliver Ranch & the Artisan Beef Institute. She gathered a panel of farmers, chefs, & an artisan butcher to discuss how each one of them influences taste & texture. It was absolutely incredible and I'm definitely on the hunt for more opportunities like that.
****
Fi -
I love how you're tying in your passion for food into teaching programs--especially with younger students. Tana's comment about writings around the meaning of food would be intriguing. I imagine, like the US, there are many idifferent nationalities represented in your classrooms and it would be interesting to hear thier perspective on traditions and foods.
Also, I'm intrigued by Jamie Oliver's school lunch program: http://tlc.discovery.com/fansites/jamieoliver/tunein.html?clik=netmain_feat1
Alice Waters is also doing some intriguing work with kids & schools, teaching them more about the environment and even planted a little garden. In the film "Food Fight" they show kids doing a taste comparision of corn they grew themselves and corn bought from the supermarket. They talked about the difference in how the corn was raised and how that impacted the flavor. Very interesting.
And my friend Naomi tells of going on a field trip to a park and they talked about the plants and which ones they could forage, etc.
And, as you know, I'm always fond of field trips. There are some fascinating places in London. Neils Yard Dairy comes to mind. :)
found my way here via your tweet dear; this is a lovely essay! I enjoyed it very much. More, please.
This is such a beautiful post, and it made me realize something...a big part of my shtick is saying my family has no food history, but that's really just my own perspective coloring what we did have. Like yours, my mom worked, and just wasn't into food and cooking period. The dishes she did occasionally make, like your casserole, aren't ones I'd really want to make/eat now (except one, also with velveeta, ground beef with velveeta on little rye toasts broiled, that I oddly crave). They were also dishes somewhat removed from any cultural history, as we were a somewhat-isolated nuclear family plopped into the middle of a new Western town. But reading about your mom's casserole, I realize, it's still a tradition. It might not be linked to a shared cultural history with other people, but my family’s “lack” of food history has defined so much about my adult life it’s absurd that I think of it as a lack.
Anyway, again, this is a wonderful post, and thank you for sharing your experiences.
What a lovely, moving post. The idea of coming together to prepare foods that mean something, that's just beautiful. Thanks for sharing.
What a lovely post. My grandmother came to this country with her challah recipe, but the recipe I have and remember most was her recipe for Apple Pie. Tasted more like a strudel, but she made it every Friday. She made it because it was "American."
What a beautiful post! A lot of the food I make has some sort of story behind it, either a memory it brings up, or a combination of things I love individually, or something I know the person I'm making it for loves. I think food is one way that many of us show love to people we care about and I never take it for granted when someone cooks for me. Thanks for sharing!
Just beautiful. The single best piece of writing from you yet. And there's so much more to come. I can't wait.
What does food mean to me?
This question really caught my attention. What does it really mean when I plan my next three meals before finishing the current one, or that over the years I’ve dedicated increasingly more of my energy and resources to food? Taking up the question helped me be more conscious of the roots of this relationship and its evolution over fifty years.
In the 50s
My early food years were simple, though I was aware that my family’s relationship to food was different than many of my friends: My mother cooked. Eating TV dinners and buying school lunches were common in my friends’ homes, and while I loved the variations on noodle casseroles that stretched my mother’s food budget, I nonetheless envied the kids who had 25 cents for a school lunch. On good days I could talk some them into trading their quarters for my brown bag lunch. Best if it was a spaghetti day, when the lunch ladies scooped out huge spoonfuls through the crusted cheese topping. But more memorable than that, I willingly committed my weekly allowance on mashed potatoes and turkey gravy day. This was the one lunch I couldn’t bear to miss. Most memorable dish: Homemade mashed potatoes.
In the 60s
I come from a family of Iowan women who cook. Beyond the casseroles and gourmet Jello salads, we ate beef stroganoff, leg of lamb, and fried chicken. My favorite meals were at my grandparents’ house, where breakfast during my visits meant eating all the bacon I wanted. I watched in surprise the first time I watched my grandmother liberally salt and pepper our cantaloupe wedges. We ate these alongside toast made from the bread she baked each week. There were cocktails at six (not for me), followed by grilled steaks on the chic covered patio. Back at home the fast food craze was just beginning. I started dating the year Taco Bell franchised in southern California. My boyfriend treated me to the five-items-for-a-dollar special after particularly good make-out sessions, standing behind the 76 Gas Station. Most memorable dish: Thin-sliced, homemade white bread, toasted and buttered.
In the 70s
Now I was away from home and it was my turn to cook. I loved the meatloaf recipe on the back of the dried Lipton onion soup mix—a tip from my roommate’s mother—and her chili Frito cheese casserole was an oh-so tasty second. And when I started dating a real adult, Sweetheart #2, I also moved up the restaurant food chain from Taco Bell to the Black Angus. But better yet were Sunday dinners with his Italian aunts. I fell in love with steaming pots of minestrone soup and platters of spaghetti piled high with polpettes, as well as the Italian sensibility that there couldn’t be too much food on the table. One Saturday morning I ditched my grocery cart in the Safeway produce section when I ran into Aunt Emmy and she invited me to make zucchini blossom soup, right that moment. Everything else we needed was in her cart and the blossoms were waiting. Under her tutelage I was becoming a real cook. That same year, in a fluke of luck, I entered a family recipe for cranberry pie in a contest and won! Most memorable dish: Zucchini blossom soup
In the 80s
I married, but not to the Italian. Sweetheart #3 was Japanese/Hawaiian/Native American, had lived abroad for five years, and loved to eat. His specialty was grilling salmon over an alder fire on the beach. Together we whittled down the cedar strips, dug pits in the rocks along the Tacoma shore, and tended the skewered fish opposite the direction of the smoke. Unlike the Italian, this guy loved getting out and eating out. We headed to Seattle most weekends, hitting House of Hong (my first chicken feet), Tai Tung, Il Terrazzo Carmine, Ayutthaya, and Il Bistro. Seduced by the vegetables and fruits at the Market, I bought the freshest arugula from Frank, and escarole and broccoli rabe from Pasqualina. And then along came the influential Settebello. We were there. Most memorable dish: Housemade pasta at Settebello.
In the 90s
I entered the new decade as a grad student in small town Indiana. Thank heavens the vibrant international population meant plenty of ethnic grocery stores and restaurants. I did my first co-op shopping and supplemented that at the seasonal farmer’s market, where I stretched my food budget with vibrant peppers and lettuce and tomatoes that grew like weeds. Back in Seattle, my favorite Brenner Brothers Bakery was no longer the only show in town. Grand Central Bakery changed the face of bread in Seattle and soon spawned others. On trips home I loaded up my suitcase with loaves of Como and bolo rolls. I extended the shopping to San Diego, my childhood home, where I bought Pete’s Italian sausage, or to Brooklyn, where I filled my bag with freshly cured bacon and wheat pie. And then one memorable day our pal Erik invited us to Vancouver to a hole-in-the wall eatery recently opened by Vikram Vij. Oh. My. Most memorable dish: Vij’s lamb popsicles in Fenugreek cream sauce.
In the 00s
The new millennium found me working in central Illinois. Sweetheart #4 (yeah, that’s another story for another time) and I connected with local foodies at a weekly wine tasting, and a core group of us soon started a Slow Food convivia, Prairieland Slow Foods. Our first project was a compilation of local producers, a project that connected us—producers and consumers—with one another. Imagine my amazement, as a person who loved pork, when we invited three small pork farmers to showcase their hams, and two of our group members could discern whose ham was whose! One Saturday morning I bought 20 pounds of meat and chicken from the Moore’s, whose offerings were limited, then afterward ran to Sears to buy a freezer to put it in. I revisited my former stomping grounds in Indiana, and there discovered the farmer’s market had quadrupled in size, as well as Judith Schad’s Capriole Farmstead Goat Cheeses. And then there was Food TV. These six food years reached a crescendo when our group held a school garden fundraiser with a US Slow Food founder, Alice Waters, and a month later hosted Deborah Madison, then on her Local Produce tour. Most memorable dish: Gnocchi with porcini foam made by a young chef at Timpone’s.
We have returned to Seattle, and like anyone who’s read this far (!), immersed in a burgeoning food culture.
So what does food mean to me, beyond the ever-present bread, potatoes, and pork in my story (who really knew!)? Valuing my food roots, and growing deeper ones with my friends and family? An appreciation for food in these communities that has nurtured my own? Closer connections to the amazing men and women who grow, raise—even forage—the food I consume? Finally, the incredible online communities, whose member postings are an integral part of my days? These capture the essence of what food means to me in 2009.
Moreover, this opportunity to reflect sets me up for the next decade. What I’m thinking right now comes mostly from Michael Pollen: Join my family and friends at the table … to pay more, eat less … to eat mostly plants … along with a little wine.
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