Food Finds in Thailand

WARNING:

No introduction to Thailand would be complete without a mention about THE BUCKETS. When the sun begins to set, if you are anywhere near a beach these buckets will be prominently featured at restaurants, bars, and anywhere selling cold drinks.

For a mere $5, you get a hip flask of Thai whisky, a can of Coca-cola, a Red Bull energy drink...and a straw. If you're lucky, you may even get some ice.

Pour the entire contents into the bucket...and drink.

Word of warning...while the buckets may be cheap, they're pretty much a guaranteed hangover. Many days have been spent on the beach...recovering from THE BUCKETS.

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Branding gone too far? Starbucks logo on a moon cake

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Packaged nori at 7-11

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The Dreadlock Shop sings "The Sticky Rice Blues..."

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At this restaurant you can have your laundry done, book a trek or your transportation out of town, AND enjoy the city's the SECOND best pizza

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Sex sells...ramen noodles

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Sex sells...energy drinks

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This was labeled as a "gourmet" sandwich. White bread with crusts trimmed, lettuce, cucumber, tomato, mango?, cheese, and shredded carrot.

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Continental breakfast includes mini hot dogs

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Grilled "sausages". For the most part, these were filled with rice.

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Snack cart

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I have no idea what this guy is selling...but I love this picture. You can't see it very well, but he's sporting an Elvis t-shirt.

Fruit & Vegetable Carving 101

Lotus blossom carved out of a plum tomato

As I discussed earlier, food in Thailand is very important. There's an artisan sensibility about it. One night I splurged on a dinner at a lovely restaurant. Each dish came with a different garnish....chrysanthemums carved out of root vegetables, the most delicate leaves carved out of carrots, etc. It was so beautiful (see photo below).

One day, my cooking class kicked off with a lesson in vegetable carving. My only brag-worthy effort was a rose carved out of a plum tomato. Above, the instructor is demonstrating the method for carving a lotus blossom. It's extremely delicate work as you trim the interior around the cluster of seeds. I enjoyed this aspect of the class very much and when I learned I could schedule a private session, I booked it immediately.

My class was with Roong and she was an excellent instructor (see examples of her work here).

We started by carving a rose out of the flesh and rind of a watermelon. The knife is like an exacto knife with a long curved blade. I'd never seen anything like it and it took me a long time just to get the feel of how to use the knife properly. Adjusting the angle of the blade as you cut through the rind, I'd cut past the deep green exterior to reveal the pale rind and red flesh. First use a steep angle to make the petals thin, then point the blade differently to express the base of the petal as it gets thicker. Trim out the excess flesh to reveal the petals, being careful not to cut too far or you lop of the petal that you just cut.

Um, yeah. I did that.

"No worry," Noong assured me.

"We have Thai super glue."

She picked up the dislodged petal and put it back in its place, secured with a toothpick--which was cleverly concealed. Nice!

Concentrating on my cutting, she kept saying, "Be happy! Smile, be hap-py!" and she'd then break into a chorus of "Don't worry...be happy now."

I'm a long way from needing a kit like this, but I did send 3 knives home. I'm looking forward to playing with those....and keeping my Thai super glue handy!

(Above) Carvings from my private class: Roses made out of small, round watermelons (the watermelons in the US are larger and oblong shaped), white swans and leaves out of daikon radishes, and small swans out of plum tomatoes. Eyes are black peppercorns. Beaks are carved carrots or the tip off red chilis.

Chrysanthemum carved out of a root vegetable

Lessons from the Backpacker Trail

On my first trip to Thailand, I traveled with my friend Alison. We rented a hut on a white corral beach with a pristine ocean view. The accommodations were humble...perhaps only a step above camping, but the beach was amazing. We paid the grand sum of $3 a night, total.

Back in Seattle, I'd stare into my latte cup and think, for the same price as my coffee...I could be staying in paradise.

Traveling never really finds me flush with cash. With a meager budget, often I'll stay in cheaper accommodations so I can take advantage of other things. Guest houses and hostels are inexpensive places to stay, and there you'll find other travelers who have a wealth of information to share.

Every morning, I'd stumble down for breakfast. Inevitably, this is where networking is at its best. Where have you been? Who has the good tours? What did you see? What would you recommend? Where are you from...and where are you going?

I'd meet all kinds of travelers. Most had been on the road for months traveling South East Asia and Australia/New Zealand. Occasionally I'd meet someone who was on an around the world trip--customized tickets to circle the globe. One girl had been in South Africa, Venezuela, Australia, Thailand, then on to India before returning to London.

No doubt, most of my fellow travelers were on the trip of a lifetime.

Immersing yourself in other cultures challenges commonly held beliefs. It begins to wear away the division between "I'm right, you're wrong." At some point you just begin to accept that things are done differently. That's all.

No right.

No wrong.

Just different.

Through multiple border crossings, busses, trains, rickshaws, overland, waiting in endless lines, heat, rain, dust, and sweat...stripped of comforts and often your dignity, you learn what to appreciate what really matters.

On the backpacker trail, there's a common bond. I find an openness and a sense of welcome that is readily shared. No matter how long you've been on the road, we've all been disoriented--bewildered by another culture or custom. Inevitably we've all had some seemingly prized possession stolen...and then were grateful it was gone. We've sacrificed and lived without...and discovered how easy it is to live without the burden of stuff. Down to the barest essentials, you find things are much more enjoyable when you have only what's necessary.

After dragging my pack from one place to another, I'd open my bag and examine each item. Do I really need this?

Now that I'm home, I'm doing the same thing. I'm living the life expected in the Western World, but the backpacker imprint has made its mark.

Each item I touch, I examine and wonder...do I really need this?

Cooking in Thailand

Dry ingredients for curry paste

Based on great recommendations from my friends Connie and Becky, when I arrived in Chiang Mai, I immediately signed up for cooking classes. Several places in the city now teach Thai cooking, but the Chiang Mai Thai School of Cookery was the first. I was so impressed, I can't imagine how they could be improved. Trust me, I've taken a ton of cooking classes and this place was really special.

I befriended one of the cooking school instructors and happily became his pet. After every dish I prepared, Ollie would come along and say, "Taste. What does it need?"

We'd taste the dish together and discuss the flavor. I'd either get his seal of approval (which was very rare) or he'd say, "You like that?" which translated as "I recognize your personal choice, but do you really like that?"

It was no stretch for me to look befuddled and say, "I don't know. What do you think?"

"I think it needs more lime and just a touch of tamarind juice," which he would swiftly add to my dish.

Then we'd taste again.

He'd smile and in his English with a beautiful British lilt, Ollie would finally give his endorsement, "Yes. That's bettah."



Lessons learned:

- Thai cooking is FAST and mise en place is very important. Have everything cut and portioned before you begin.

- When cooking with fish sauce, try adding it last. Why? The longer it cooks, the saltier it gets.

- Cheap fish sauce is really salty and often made with snails, not fish. For good fish sauce, the darker the color, the higher the quality...and typically, less salty.

- Green Thai chilies are younger...and spicier. (Like people, young chillies have more fire!)

- Traditional Thai cooking uses 3 different kinds of basil:

Holy Basil or Purple Basil has a purple stem and leaves. It has a hot flavor and is used for stir fries. It's added at the last minute.

Lemon Basil has a light green stem and leaves. It has a lemony flavor and is used in soups, salads, and curries--especially those containing seafood. It's added at the end.

Sweet Basil has a purple stem and dark green leaves. It has an aniseed flavor and can be used in all types of dishes including curries, stir-fries and curry pastes. It is often used as a garnish. This is the most common type of basil found.



Here's one of my favorite recipes from the class:

Fried Fish with Chili and Basil
(Plaa Nin Laad Prik Bai Horapa)

from the Chiang Mai Cooking School

10 oz pan fried fish fillets (cod, haddock, plaice, halibut, or red mullet)

Sauce:

2 tablespoons oil
6 cloves of garlic, crushed
1 onion, chopped
5 medium red chilies, thinly sliced (fresh)
1 big red chili, sliced*
1 big green chili, sliced*
1 tablespoon fish sauce
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1/4 cup chicken stock or water
3/4 cup sweet basil leaves
1/2 cup coriander, chopped

* Note: These chillies are different than commonly found in the US. For the big red chilli, substitute 1/2 medium red pepper. For the big green chili, substitute 1 small Anaheim or 1/2 medium green pepper.

Deep fry the fish fillets in very hot oil until crispy and cooked through.

To make the sauce, put the oil in a hot wok and add the garlic, onion and chilies. Fry until the garlic starts to turn brown. Then add the fish sauce, soy sauce, and chicken stock. Fry for 1 minute. Add the basil leaves and stir fry well to combine.

Turn off the heat and pour the sauce over the fish. Garnish with the coriander.

Greetings from Chiang Mai!

Flying over Chiang Mai Province

Since I'm playing a bit of catch up...this first post is from a series of e-mails I sent home from Thailand.

Hi there everyone. Just wanted to drop you a quick note and let you know I arrived safely.

I'm getting reacquainted with Thailand and loving it! I'm staying at a place called the "Smile Guest House"--teak floors and a room overlooking the pool for the grand sum of $5 a night! It's the rainy season, which means they get a short soak in the evenings so I'm hanging out at the internet cafe until the rain subsides. I didn't get into Chiang Mai until this evening, so I'm looking forward to checking out the city a bit more. As we flew in, I could see the city has lovely mountains to one side (see photo above).

Tomorrow I'm off for a day of cooking classes at the Chiang Mai School of Thai Cookery (thanks to Connie & Becky's seal of approval). Then on Monday nights, there's a Buddhist monastery that features a local monk giving a talk on some aspect of Thai Buddhism (I think I read somewhere that over 95% of Thailand is Buddhist). I'm going to try to find that place tomorrow night.

I had a nice chat with this British guy staying at my guest house. Last week he got attacked by a monkey!!! (Alison...remember that EVIL monkey we saw???) Anyway, he was lucky the beast was chained to a tree. As it is, he got bit in the face, broke his glasses and popped out both his lenses. He's like, "Do you think I should go get a tetanus shot?" Umm....yeah.

Stay tuned for more tales from the road!

I need a bigger map!

With my schedule suddenly cleared, I had enough time for a quick trip out of the country. Lucky for me, I have an endless list of places researched and on my radar.


Surfing the internet...toggling between Orbitz and the Lonely Planet World Guide, I entered multiple combinations trying to figure out where to go.

India? I found a great airfare, but it took a minimum of 5 business days for a visa. If I was going to be back by the end of the month and still leave the country, I needed to go sooner than that.

Morocco? Airfare was rediculously expensive.

Indonesia? Not enough time to do it justice.

Panama? The past two years, I've spent vacations in Mexico, Belize, and Guatemala. Enough of Central America, for now.

Europe? Not exotic enough for this trip. Besides, the exchange rate is terrible right now. I've also been before (9 countries). Europe is out.

China? This is the place I'd really like to linger. A friend of mine just returned from Chengdu and highly recommended it. Airfare, however, was astronomical.

Thailand? I've been there before, but I was really green then.

Hmmm....

I found a respectable airfare, and no visa is required.

It also offers high cultural elements as well as great beaches. (Places with scuba diving get even higher points!)

Plus I was exhausted and I knew Thailand is fairly easy travel.

Thailand it is!

That September Itch

When I was a kid, people would ask the inevitable, "what do you want to be when you grow up?" The only occupation that ever came to mind was an international correspondent. I've always wanted to circle the globe, experiencing cultures as people really lived...and follow in the footprints of Earnest Hemmingway.

At heart, I'm a traveler.

My mom learned long ago to keep my address in pencil. In fact, until recent years, people told me I had more addresses than a circus performer! Thanks to a houseguest I had this summer who was on tour with Cirque du Soleil, I can attest...I wasn't that bad. But I'm sure it was close!

Truth be told, what I'd really prefer is to have no address at all. One day I want to close the door on my home, kiss the cat goodbye, and get lost on the backpacker trail for a year...or more.

I yearn for adventures in far flung destinations.

For some reason, this urge becomes especially overwhelming in September. Maybe it's the imprinting from my student days...and the looming school season ahead. For me, September represented one last chance to craft a noteworthy response when asked, "What did you do this summer?"

Looking my passport, it's obvious that September cat scratch itch has never left me.

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Fast forward to last month. I was restless. I toyed with taking weekend trips to New York, San Francisco, Vancouver...or anywhere, really. Points laid out on a map before me....yet something kept holding me back. I didn't have enough time...or it wasn't exotic enough.

Then one night...I was hanging out with some friends and the bossman handed me my paycheck. As he passed it to me, I was told, "Be back by the end of the month." I thought that was strange, but didn't dwell on it. Absentmindedly, I stuck the check in my bag and never gave it another thought. The next morning I finally looked...and the figure was double what I was expecting!

Tears welled up as those words came back to me, "Be back by the end of the month...."

Three days later, I was on a journey half way around the world.

Reader Friendly Mail

I love surprises!

An artist friend sent me this post card. Stark and simple...here's the message:

Value Added

I have a confession. Although I work with an upscale chef, my favorite places are the hole-in-the-wall, cheap eat kind of joints. My breakfast spot is small enough--and popular enough--that on the weekends if you don't time it right, you'll find yourself waiting outside for 45 minutes. And I wait, happily. Same thing with one of my favorite dinner spots. If you are lucky enough to snag a seat at one of their 5 tables...you're in for a real treat.

But it goes beyond that. It's not about just the food.

There's a certain ineffable quality about the places that make my short list. They're the kind of places that feel more like home than my own. I walk in the door and am often greeted with a big smile...and a hug. I have become part of their culinary "family." And if I haven't stopped by in a while...they notice.

Under their care, I am nurtured in a way that goes far beyond my belly.


Last weekend I went to check out a new Szechuan restaurant in my neighborhood. It's in an obscure area, located in a strip mall where the anchor store left years ago. Yet, as I pulled up and spied the restaurant, there was no parking anywhere close. This was a good sign...and I started to get excited.

The restaurant was completely packed and I was one of the only Caucasians in the place. Without even sampling the food, I knew I liked it already.

As I stood at the entrance, striding towards me was a waitress with a smile that outshined the glimmer from her silk blouse.

I was greeted with a loud and long "Hiiiiii! How are yew?"

Zeroing in on her face...I quickly recognized her as a favorite waitress from another restaurant!

She opened her arms wide and gave me the biggest hug.

"I've been waiting for yew!"

What???

My mind was fuzzy. Am I missing something in the translation?

As it turned out, no, I didn't miss anything.

She had switched restaurant allegiances months ago. Somehow she knew our paths would cross again, eventually. I hadn't seen her in 6 months and surely she had seen hundreds of people come and go. I was pleased to be remembered.

I had stopped to get a simple take out order and scanned the menu for a brief moment before she said, "You want crispy garlic chicken? Here we call it ...."

I was stunned she actually recalled my favorite dish!

"No, I'm thinking I'll try something different."

Pointing to a line on my menu, she said, "We have your dan dan noodles here."

I was amazed. And touched.

My eye landed on moo shu pork and I placed my order. Laughing, she recalled how I tried to get the other restaurant to add it to their menu! (It's true.)

While I waited for my order, she introduced me to the entire staff--including the kitchen crew! I was honored to be receiving such gold star treatment.

As I turned to leave, I fell into her arms for another hug...and it was more welcome than anything in my carry out bag.


In business lingo, they call that a value added experience. Call it what you will....for me, there's nothing better than being cared for...and cared about.

While it may be a simple dinner, in the end, it's much more than that.

Value added, indeed!

Labor Day Pig Roast

Golden Gardens Beach, Seattle, WA

Another chapter for my Year of the Pig....

On September 4th, a group of us gathered at Seattle's Golden Garden's Park for a fabulous day at the beach. The chef I work with and my friend Rocky roasted two 75 pound pigs that we affectionately dubbed "the twins." Thanks to Ethan and Rocky, the pigs were on the fire at 7:00am and we ate sometime around 4:00pm. It was a ton of work and they were both a bit bleary-eyed when I arrived, but the results were amazing! Below is a photo montage from the BBQ. (Double click on any of the images if you want a closer look.)

Although we had a "name the pig contest", they remained with the nickname "the twins"

Rotating the pigs...Ethan (left) and Rocky (right).

Porky goodness and crispy skin...finger lickin' good!

A perfect way to end a most memorable summer.

My Year of the Pig

According to the Chinese Zodiac calendar, technically, the "Year of the Pig" is not until 2007. For once in my life, I think I'm ahead of schedule.

Unlike my friend Della, I've never really considered myself a raving Team Pork fan, but this past year has had an undeniable reoccuring theme. I've affectionately called it my "Year of the Pig."

It started this spring when by sheer dumb luck, I attended a lecture by Fergus Henderson. If you don't know Fergus, he's the author of "Whole Beast: Nose to Tail Eating." He is also the mastermind behind England's highly acclaimed St. John restaurant where...you guessed it, the menu is completely nose to tail! The lecture included a slide show featuring the butchering of a pig...in full detail. It was one of those moments where a picture truly was worth more than 1,000 words. Shocked and a bit appalled, I chided my friend for bringing me.

In a crazy twist of fate...that the lecture proved to be invaluable.

It also primed me for a set of other pig-centric experiences.

A few weeks later, I took a charcuterie class. It sounded interesting and I knew virtually nothing about the subject. I had no idea what I was in for. The class was my first encounter with hog casings and fatback. Luckily the casings were already soaked and prepped by the time I got to them. Since this was my virgin experience, I don't know if I could have handled cleaning them myself. I was already taken back by the entire sausage-making process. Learning works in stages and early on in the class, I'd hit my limit. I volunteered to make the only chicken sausage on the agenda. I'll also confess...I shamelessly found a different project to work on when it came time to stuff the sausages!

But the sausage was good....really good.

In fact, it was the best I'd ever had!

I was intrigued.

When friends gathered for a sausage making party, I hesitated, and finally agreed to go. Still unsure of myself, I stayed out of the pre-party planning and discussions. It was obvious everyone else was really excited...and enthusiastically read up on the subject both online and by reading Michael Ruhlman's "Charcuterie: The Craft of Salting, Curing, and Smoking." I, on the other hand, barely got my act together enough to be a worthwhile participant. I had my recipe, ingredients (sans casings), and waning confidence.

The group of us descended on the house. The room quickly filled with talk of sausage and smoking meat. I was content to be a fly on the wall, listening and learning. Although I had purchased the ingredients, I was secretly hoping to make myself useful and avoid making my own sausage. At just the right moment, a few nurturing soles took me under their wings and guided me through the process. Finally, lying in a spiral before me, were sausages I'd actually made myself! I vaguely remember someone even calling my sausages "beautiful."

For this foray, I revisited the chicken sausage recipe I'd enjoyed so much. Made by my own hand, I'm happy to report...they were just as good as I remembered!

Back at the restaurant, the chef teased me, "What if Jason (chef de cuisine) wants to put your sausage on the menu?"

To me, the idea was preposterous. I retorted, "Then I think he's got a problem!"

But the wheels started turning..."what if..."

I bought the "Charcuterie" book and it was exceptionally well written. I could actually see myself making sausage on my own.

After a couple attempts under my belt, my confidence was growing.

Next was the Porcella sausage making class. By this time, I was confident and it was fun to get a refresher. The best part about the class was meeting Porcella's charcuterie guy, Noah. As I mentioned earlier, I made it a point to work with him. Hence, the HEAD CHEESE.

Rounding out my "Year of the Pig" was a pig roast over Labor Day weekend. Two whole 75 pound pigs, who we affectionately dubbed "the twins," slowly roasted over charcoal for 9 hours. (See my next post for photos and details.)

So what's next for my "Year of the Pig"? At this point, that's anybody's guess. More sausage, for sure!

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While the quantity of this recipe makes a lot, I recommend making the whole batch. The sausages freeze very well. If you want to skip the hog casings, you can easily form the sausage into patties instead.

Green Chile Chicken Sausage
From Culinary Communion

makes 11 ½ pounds

7# boneless chicken thighs, cubed
3 # fat back, cubed
6 T chili powder
5 tsp cumin
5 tsp sweet Spanish paprika
5 tsp oregano
5 tsp dried basil
1 ½ tsp onion powder
6 garlic cloves, minced
5 tsp Tabasco sauce
3 ½ oz salt
3 jalapenos, seeded and minced
12 oz poblano chiles, roasted, seeded, peeled and cut into ⅛” dice
12 oz ice-cold water
21 ft hog casings, rinsed

Process: Toss the chicken and the fat back with the combined seasonings. Chill well. Grind through the fine plate (⅛”) of a meat grinder into a mixing bowl over an ice bath.

Combine: Mix on low speed for 1 minute, gradually adding poblano chiles, jalapenos, and ice water. Mix on medium speed for 15-20 seconds, or until the sausage mixture is sticky to the touch.

Test: Panfry a test patty. Adjust seasoning and consistency before filling the prepared casings and shaping into 4” links.

The sausage is ready to prepare for service now by pan frying, baking, grilling, or broiling to an internal temperature of 150°F, or hold under refrigeration for up to 7 days.

Blogging has changed my life....

I'd like to thank all of you who encouraged me to start this blog--including those of you I can't call out publicly (you know who you are!)

Since I started The Blog, everything I see, touch, eat, or experience is considered for fodder. And now, I constantly have a running commentary going through my head! I'm positively obsessed.

Of course, I have also added a camera to the list of things I never leave home without.

Keys...check.

Wallet...check.

Cell phone...check.

Camera.

Wait, camera????

Oh yeah, The Blog.

Camera...check!

Somehow, I never manage to eat anything anymore...without first taking a picture of it. My dining companions wait patiently while I snap photos of our food. Again. And again.

"Oh, that one had the flash on. Let me try it again."

"I just can't get this detail in focus...wait...wait...wait...."

"Okay, just one more..."

And it starts all over again when the next course comes out!


Then last night, I saw a good friend of mine who just moved back to Seattle. I took 20 (or more) photos at dinner, and exactly NONE of them included her!

What is wrong with me???

Oh, wait. I know.

The Blog.

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We went to Union and ordered off their happy hour bar menu last night. Many thanks to my friend...who waited oh-so-patiently while I took these photos. Luckily, you reap the benefit.

How's this for food porn?

Seared Ahi Tuna on Avocado Puree with Heart of Palm and Parsley Salad

Fried Quail with Fingerling Potato Salad, Pancetta, and Chives

And this beauty was from the dessert menu...

Strawberry Sorbet with Lemon Marscapone and Toasted Pine Nuts

HTT Part 1: Western and 1st Avenue

In an earlier post, I discussed my home turf tourist philosophy. My theory is simple. Paying attention to your city, getting away from the obvious, and peeling back the layers often reveals the most rewarding experiences.

Years ago, I realized that while on vacation, I'd stretch myself and wander off the beaten path, regularly. I am not an avid map reader...so I just incorporated 'wandering' as part of my plan.... But as luck would have it, I'd end up having the most amazing experiences.

And yet, I often wondered why didn't I have these incredible experiences back at home?

The simple truth was, I acted differently on vacation. I was prepared for an adventure, and while on vacation, I was determined to have one! At home, the mundane routine of day to day living suppressed that adventurous spirit.

When it finally dawned on me what the difference was, I made up my mind to change things. Now, even at home, I'm constantly on the hunt for a new experience--whether it's meeting new people, deliberately seeking out a new adventure, or exploring my city in a different way.

I'd like to share my Home Turf Tourist explorations with you. This is the first of what I hope to be many installments. Come along with me...

Mural on Western Avenue

Orcas are revered here. Three pods of Orca whales reside in the Pacific Northwest waters. One pod decidedly makes its home in Washington waters, another resides in Canadian waters off Vancouver Island. The remaining pod, lives between the two, straddling the waters of both US and Canada.

I've seen all three pods in unique circumstances far from the swarm of tourist boats. The Canadian pod, I saw on a scuba diving trip on the inside passage between Vancouver Island and the mainland. The Orcas were feeding. With fierce determination, the orcas were were chasing a group of Dahl's porpoises that had passed by our boat.

When I saw both the Washington and the more nomadic pod, I was out motoring with friends on a chartered boat. Converging right before us, the two pods came together and formed what is known as a "super pod". This, apparently is very rare. In total, we watched over 50 Orca frolic for hours. It was amazing watching them breech and then with a huge splash, crash into the water.

Mural on Western Avenue, same building on the east facing side

These are Dahl's porpoises. Occasionally they can be spotted from the ferries. They often play in the waters at the bow of boats. Although they are smaller than dolphins, their movements are the same.

Mural, Western Avenue

I love this picture. Behind the barbed wire and the "Danger: High Voltage" sign, there is an image of salmon. For me, this photo visually represents the Pacific Northwest salmon quandry. Is the fence corraling the salmon like big net? Or is it a source of protection...keeping external forces at bay?

Danger: High Voltage. The subject of salmon is a hot topic here. While salmon is still considered the quintessential Northwest delicacy, our wild salmon runs have declined to dangerously low levels--and some are in jeopardy of complete extinction.

The wild salmon population has been deeply impacted by a number of society-driven factors, including: damming, population growth, and pollution. And yet, there are currently over a hundred non-profit organizations attempting to preserve, if not restore, the salmon population.

Hammering Man at Seattle Art Museum, 1st Avenue

The Seattle Art Museum's Hammering Man is a major Seattle landmark and ordinarily, I wouldn't consider it HTT worthy. However, the museum is under construction and things look a little bit different with the Man.

According to the SAM website, Hammering Man is an artist's representation, celebrating the worker. Typically, the hammering arm strikes 4 times a minute, from 7am to 10pm. The mechanism is designed so the Man rests at night and during Labor Day.

While the museum has been undergoing renovations, Hammering Man has been bound and constricted, confined and without movement. Every time I pass this site, I wonder if that is not a more accurate representation of the working man....

"Pi in the Sky" at Harbor Steps, between 1st and Western

The blasted steel sculpture "Pi" is a curious piece. The title is a pun on the phrase "pie in the sky" -- an American expression for things lofty and unobtainable. It is situated next to Harbor Steps Apartments. When these apartments were first built, they were some of the most expensive in the city and they attracted residents including sports team players, the affluent, and the up and coming. Harbor Steps was THE place to live downtown.

A friend of mine lived at Harbor Steps in a microscopic apartment with dead on view of hammering man's arm, striking....4 times a minute...14 hours a day....And she paid a ghastly premium! She couldn't really afford to live there...but she was chasing the pie in the sky life...or was it...pi in the sky?

On a lighter note...I'll leave you with this...

Oriental Lilly, Pike Place Market flower stall

Life Behind the Party

Wine & Spirits event at the Palace Ballroom

After enduring 9 months of rain, Seattleites relish summer. With clear skies and temperatures hovering around 80 degrees, we make the most of our short, blissful summers. To celebrate, there are an endless number of events throughout the season.

I work with one of the nation's hottest new chefs. Along with his rise in fame, he is approached to participate in every event imaginable.

Trust me.

It's positively staggering.

Typically, the requests roll in months in advance. In February, events are placed on the calendar for August. In the equivalent of restaurant time...that's light years away....

In contrast, for the event coordinators, there's a considerable amount of leg work that takes place months in advance. In one of my past lives, I was a party coordinator, so I understand this perspective. A smooth event depends on a million details, and it's key that each person fulfills their assigned task in a timely manner. Things go sideways in a hurry if they don't.

Juggling between all the players is a huge challenge. I'm sure this list is in no way comprehensive, but a typical event will include considerations for: the main event coordinators, sponsors, board members, patrons, donors, employees, a slew of volunteers, restaurants or caterers, valet & parking lot attendants, entertainers, photographers, sound & electrical technicians, equipment rental companies, health department officials, the liquor board, and in some cases...grounds keepers, auctioneers, film crews, and assorted media.

Behind the scenes for every event, there are a number of "go to" people who make things happen. They are the glue that holds everything together...and it is no easy feat. An event may last just a few hours, but it's mind-boggling to consider the amount of work that goes into one. (If you've ever planned your own wedding... take your guest list, multiply it by 20, have 10 or more restaurants preparing the food, and just for fun...do it all under the spotlight of the media. You get the idea.)

For my part, I'm the middleman between the chef and the event organizers. A few weeks beforehand, event coordinators will request the chef's head shot, bio, recipes, written statements, etc. It's a test for me to manage all the deadlines, which usually have printing schedules behind them. Miss a deadline and your copy does not get included in the printed material.

Not only does he depend on me to manage the details, but I'll also nag the chef to write the recipes for publication. And remind him write another recipe when I receive one for rabbit and for this event, we're actually doing fish. (I suppose it's no secret that most chefs hate writing recipes...)

I'll also try to identify what our needs will be in advance. I like to get a visual picture of the space where we'll set up. Will there be two tables...one for display and another table behind it where the food will be prepared? Or will chef need to prepare food on the same table as the display? Are the tables rectangle or round? (Depending on the set up, different linens are required.) Is there room for a banner? Behind or in front of the table? What's the clearance? How can we hang it...tape, clamps, or wires? Will the event organizers provide flowers or will we? Who is providing the plates, napkins and utensils? Will they provide ice or hot stations? Will we have access to a kitchen? Will we have power and will it be shared? What's the lighting situation? Where is parking and how close can we get? It's an endless number of details that set other tasks in motion. Of course, you can't plan for every situation, but I try.

This week...events that once seemed so far off in the future, suddenly came in quick succession. It nearly pushed my social-loving self over the edge! Not only did we participate in FIVE of these events, but back at the restaurant, there were the usual large parties, VIP reservations, and a wine dinner.

Here's a peek at the event schedule, with individual servings for each:

Friday: 1200*

Saturday: (early) 1200

(late) 400

Sunday: 1000

Wednesday: 600

*Yes, that means 1200 portions of heirloom tomato gazpacho with avocado oil that some how, miraculously, made it to the event. You see, it was transported on a cart through the crowds at the Pike Place Market. And since the interior gates were locked, we were forced to take gallons of gazpacho over deeply rutted cobblestones in the street. That's typical of the many joys that can happen during off-site events...

But now...the parties are over.

The big hurdles are behind us.

Reflecting on the blur of events, I'm still in awe. I walked away with a deep respect for both the people who organize these events and those who work in restaurant kitchens. They are the hardest working people I know. It truly takes an artist's passion because, honestly, the money is insignificant for most of these folks. (Don't even get me started on the fact that the brainless guy who bags my groceries...makes a higher wage than most of finest cooks in this country. That's for another story...)


I'd like to raise a glass.

To all those who earn their livelihood...making sure we enjoy the party.

I celebrate you.

Cheers!

Perfect Pairings

Friends of mine, Henry and Lorna, met through the food chat forum, eGullet. Dating now for 5 months, theirs is a fabulous story filled with romance, multiple border crossings, and forays with food.

This week, Henry and Lorna are writing a joint blog entry that has been a joy to read. I highly recommend you check it out: http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?showtopic=92274.

From their dinner Sunday night, Henry shared this beautiful story...

"The story of the Amuse Bouche is related to a speech I gave at a wedding comparing the bride and groom to foie gras and Sauternes:

'When I think of the bride and groom, two things immediately come to mind... goose liver and rotten grapes. (pause for laughter)

You see, the French take the fattened liver of a goose, and call it foie gras. To taste it is to know that it is one of the most extraordinary culinary experiences known to man.

The French also use grapes that have been infected with something called botrytis, also referred to as noble rot. What noble rot does is dehydrate the grape, greatly increasing its sugar to water ratio. So when that grape is pressed for juice, the liquid that comes out is immensely sweet and complex. The wine that is made from this juice is called Sauternes, and is one of the rarest, most expensive, and complex wines on Earth.

Now, the incredible thing about both foie gras and sauterenes is that each of these things can stand individually as a remarkable thing. They would never need anything to add to the greatness they've already achieved own their own....

However, if you take a bite of foie gras, and then a sip of Sauternes, something remarkable happens. They each bring something out of the other that you didn't know was there before. Creating a whole which is somehow greater than the sum of its parts. This is a phenomenon many chefs refer to as "a Perfect Pairing."

There are so few perfect pairings in this world that I feel honored and privileged to take part in another such perfect pairing.'

So that's the story of the Amuse Bouche."

As I've come to know Henry and Lorna (and I'm sure you'll see on their blog)...there's no doubt about it...Henry and Lorna are another perfect pairing.

Not for the Faint of Heart

WARNING: The following post contains graphic content not suitable for those faint of heart...or stomach. If you are happy not knowing where your meat comes from, please do not scroll down. Seriously.

This past weekend, I had the opportunity to work in Porcella's kitchen. To say that I was nervous and filled with apprehension is an understatement. You see, on the agenda for the day's prep was head cheese.

Before I arrived on Saturday, I'd never even had the stuff. As if the name alone wasn't repulsive enough, my only exposure to head cheese was behind Oscar Meyer molded plastic containers hanging in the grocery store. One look at the chunks of unfamiliar bits assured me, I wanted nothing to do with it. Although, I did wonder...why is it called cheese when it was clearly displayed in the meat section?

In all honesty, I couldn't even bear the sight of head cheese. Back in the day when I actually ate packaged meat for the masses, I was happy to choose the safe and more familiar bologna. Maybe the ingredient list for bologna included things I'd rather not think about, but at least the manufacturer had the courtesy to grind the contents unrecognizable!

When I ran into Noah and he agreed to let me come play in the Porcella kitchen, I had visions of a French bistro experience--making sausage, terrine, or confit. No, instead, he took endless amusement telling me we'd be making head cheese. Every part of my girly self screamed, "Ewww...."

I have been known to be quite gullible and part of me hoped this was a big joke. I searched his face for the tell tale sign of a prank. Nothing. He was serious. HEAD CHEESE. There was no getting out of this. After all, I'd been bugging Noah to let me come for weeks. We had a few beers and then he said, "I won't blame you if you don't show up tomorrow." That sealed the deal. The gauntlet was thrown. This was about honor now! I had to go.

That morning, I dragged myself out of the house. I decided to skip breakfast--the thought of making head cheese was already gross enough. No need for me to add any drama by loosing my breakfast over this.

When I arrived at the shop, it was clear there may have been a wager placed on whether I'd show up. I faked it with my best bravado, "Of course I'd be here!!!"

Once I stepped into the kitchen, Noah wasted no time getting started. He emerged from the walk-in, triumphantly holding the pig's head like a prize. (Drum roll....)

Unwrapped and resting on the cutting board, I studied the head. I'd never been this close to any whole animal I consumed on a frequent basis. While Noah gathered together his giant saw and splitter, I made my peace with the pig. Then, at some point, my universe shifted and the pig became an object rather than a being. Why, I'm not really sure. I'm still pondering that point.

Breaking the moment, Noah arrived at the prep table with his tools. The saw was at least 3 feet long! Adding to the surreal experience, the saw resembled one I vaguely remember my dad using to cut firewood. The splitter was a tool I'd never seen before but it had the hefty look of a hardware tool--clearly invented for another purpose.

The pig was in a sad state from the beginning. It was missing an eyeball and around both sockets, for some reason, the eyelids had been removed.

Swiftly, Noah set to work (and thankfully spared me the task of actually doing the sawing). He explained, "There's no waste here. The only things we don't use are the eyes and the brain. They both give off a bitter taste, so we remove them. Other than that, everything gets used." He removed the sole remaining eye and set it aside.

With his thumb wedged into the pig's ear for leverage, he began sawing, straight through the middle.

Once the head was split, the brain was removed. It was in two segments, both encased and easily removed intact. The two lobes of the brain were approximately 4 oz. each--roughly the size of the palm of my hand.

Finally the head is clean and ready to be cooked--ears, skin, teeth and all. (Notice Noah's skull and coffin tattoo.)

The two halves of the head were put into a large pot. Added were trotters (hooves), carrots, celery, and a cheese cloth nest of spices. The pot was filled with water and let simmer for 6 hours.

After I left and the simmering was complete, Noah let the head cool down and then picked it clean. What is remains is packed into a mold with the cooking liquid, which was reduced down to about 8 cups. According to Noah, no gelatin is needed because of the addition of the trotters.

I stopped in the store a couple days later and sampled his handiwork. For all my anxiety and trepidation, the head cheese was really anti-climatic. It really didn't taste as strange as I expected. Noah served it with vinegared onions, coarse mustard, and bread. I have to admit, it was quite tasty.

As an added bonus...Noah was kind enough to send me the process of those onions...which were amazing. Here's what he said, "Red wine pickled onions are a pretty standard pate condiment, I make mine with red wine, red wine vinegar, sugar, salt, bay leaf, coriander seed and mustard seed. Bring to a boil, add onions , cook for about 5 minutes, turn off heat and leave onions in pickling juice until cool. Strain and use. "

In all honesty, this experience was one that left me with more questions than answers. I was surprised at my reaction...both in approaching something so completely new to me, and of the shift in my thinking. When did the pig simply become a "thing" to me? At what point did I become desensitized?

Now I realize how far removed I am from the food I eat. In countries around the world, what I witnessed is a normal part of life. Yet in my Western idealized world, without putting a "what if..." in motion, I could have lived my whole life never getting up close and personal with the food that reaches my table. I'm grappling with what that means, and what I'm going to do about it. Stay tuned.

****
Charcuterie, part I: Click here.

Be Careful What You Ask For

Sometimes my "What if..." moments don't necessarily turn out the way I imagine....

Noah Mellich is the guy behind the amazing charcuterie at Porcella--and since their opening, he's been giving the more well-known Salumi a run for their money!

Coincidently, I happen to have a budding desire to learn how to make my own sausages and confit. In one of my a classic "What if..." moments, I asked if Noah would let me come play in his kitchen. Who better to learn from but a master, right?

Noah agreed, but somehow, we never connected. Weeks went by. Either he didn't need to replenish his stock or the time wasn't right. Last night I ran into Noah and happily, my luck took a turn for the better.

Finally, the moment was ripe and he relented. "Come in tomorrow at 10:00am."

I was so excited...I totally jumped at the chance!

We talked a little bit more and then I learned about THE CATCH.

With a wry grin, he said "Yeah, I'm making head cheese."

Oh.

Clearly enjoying my girly squeamishness, he offered, "I'll let you saw the pig's head open."

Oh God.

"It makes a fantastic sound when you crack through the skull."

Oh dear God.

Then he goes on to explain, "It's a two day process, but you get to do the best part."

I rally and think, "Hey, I could really learn something here." I start to get excited again.

"You can scoop out the brain!"

Ahem.

With such a sweet boyish face, a ready grin....and a biblical name to boot...who knew Noah had such an evil side? Okay, seriously, I'll admit...the guy does have a full tattoo sleeve of skulls. Somehow, I managed to overlook that. (Note to self: pay attention to the clues!)

A few short hours later...today's the day. Even though I didn't get home until the wee hours last night, I woke up long before my alarm went off. I'm unbelievably grossed out by the thought of this.

However, I believe in trying everything once. I am going. Carpe diem, right???

While I decide whether or not to eat breakfast--wish me luck. Today I just might become a vegetarian.

***
Charcuterie, part II: Click here.

S'more Memories

Years ago, my friend Lisa and I would get together for girl's night in. Those nights never failed to involve great food, long discussions and lots of laughter. Time easily slipped away, leaving our carefully selected chick movies for another day.

My friend Lisa is also famous for creating really special moments. One night, after a trip to Whole Foods, she showed up at my house and said, "Grab a candle." As I searched, she called after me, "Make sure you get one you don't care about!" I laughed...only girlfriends would know you have "special" candles and others that are less worthy.

With a big green post-Christmas sale candle in hand, I joined her in my living room. She was busy setting up the coffee table with her Whole Foods treasure: really good chocolate, graham crackers, and the famous house-made vanilla and chocolate marshmallows. With the winter rain drizzling outside, we hovered over the candle's dim flame with chopsticks. Yes, chopsticks. Roasting marshmallows with chopsticks proved to be an art form--trying to properly toast the marshmallow without actually burning the chopsticks. It sounds rediculous now, but hey, that's the stuff of long lingering memories.

Photo from Recchiuti Confections

Today, my dear friend Lisa is getting married. Her beau, Grant, is one lucky guy. I'm sure Lisa will fill their years together with many special memories.

Thanks to the amazing chocolatier, Michael Recchiuti, I have found them the perfect gift....a S'mores kit!

As I filled out the order form, a poetic moment swept over me. I sent the kit with the following message:

May your life together be…like good chocolate with the bitterness balanced sweetly…marshmallowed with moments of sweet bliss…optimally sandwiched together to build delicious memories…and always best enjoyed with a burning flame.

Do you know Vixen?

I attended a dinner where each course was paired with champagne and sparkling wine. Since then, I've been shamelessly enjoying more than my share of bubbly. Now I'm normally a red wine girl, but I've discovered the best of both worlds: Vixen from Fox Creek. This is a sparkling Shiraz (yes, that's right!) and it's fabulous. I love pouring it into a glass...watching the line between liquid and effervescence shift in color from dark plum to a bubbling magenta. At just under $20 a bottle, Vixen is a steal. The only problem is trying to track it down. One wine shop I visited was sold out and at my neighborhood Whole Foods, I snagged the last bottle. Like searching for a pot of gold at the end of a rainbow, it makes me smile to think...I'm on the hunt for an elusive Vixen!

Nosh from the Bivalve Bash

Throughout the year, Taylor Shellfish runs a brisk business--supplying restaurants with a variety of locally harvested clams, mussels, goeducks, and oysters. Around Seattle, you can also find Taylor Shellfish goodies at the farmer's markets. In the summer, the annual Bivalve Bash is held at the home "office" of Taylor Shellfish Farm.

What festival could be complete without some great food? Forget the typical American festival offerings of corndogs and elephant ears! At the Bivalve Bash, they served up the best of the Pacific Northwest--including wild harvested salmon with fry bread. Prepared by a local Native American tribe, the salmon is grilled on sacred skewers.

Next up were the smoked oysters featuring a global selection of toppings: chipotle, plum sauce and ginger, plain or lobster aioli, or a combo of spinach, bacon, garlic and parmesan . With a never ending line, these folks went through hundreds of oysters. No wonder...they were fabulous!

While they didn't serve goeduck this weekend, the chef I work with serves this raw...sashimi style. Burrowed deep in the sand, I learned goeduck are harvested by shooting powerful jets of water to reveal the coveted bivalve.

Forget calling out S.O.S....send wine...and leave me to enjoy the incoming tide!