It's Work

Chocolate Party, hosted by Seattle Metropolitan magazine & Verizon

I recently went to a dinner at a friend's house and unfortunately, it was only a cameo appearance. I was dashing off to two other events that night....an unveiling of a new chef (meet & greet with samplings) and a winemaker dinner back at the restaurant.

As I turned to leave, I overheard someone say, "Wow. I was happy just getting invited to this potluck! It must be fun going to all those parties."

I didn't have the heart to tell her...it's really not that exciting.

It's work.

Before I got into this business, I'd go to these events...and always have a great time. I didn't know Ethan Stowell from Tom Douglas. As long as the food was good, I didn't care who the chef was.

Back then, I also didn't know half the people in the room. I was free to mingle about and strike up conversation with anyone...on any subject. Now I make a point of watching what I say.

Gone are the days when I could drink a little too much free wine. Now I must maintain composure.

It's work.

I'm starting to understand what life is like for those attending the Academy Awards. Society pages feature those same people at a ton of glamourous parties throughout the year. Why do those celebs look so natural out on the red carpet? It's just another event. I get it now.

As much fun as these parties sound, when you attend 5 in 3 days...I have to say, they loose their appeal quickly.

In a working capacity, events are like speed dating. Everyone works the room, hoping to meet a ton of people and have brief---but meaningful conversations. Kiss, kiss, I'll e-mail you this week...and a vague...let's get together for coffee/lunch/cocktails/dinner. Yeah, I know the drill.

I'd like to say it's all fun and glam, but it's not.

It's work.

Volunteer Park Cafe

Capitol Hill, Seattle, WA

Volunteer Park Cafe is a great neighborhood spot. The minute I walked in the door, I was plotting my return! The sandwiches are amazing....and my friend summed it best, "I want to try everything on the menu!"

The decisions are tough...but oh so delicious!

I Have a Dream

For the past few years, I've had this nagging urge...

It bubbles to the surface every now and then and leaves me restless for days...or even weeks at a time. This reoccurring thought will not be quieted, forgotten about, or cast aside. I've decided to put momentum behind this dream...and carve out a plan.

I'm going to travel around the world.

Although I'm filled with nervous energy at the daunting challenge ahead of me, I know I must go forward. It's not the sensible thing to do. I should settle down, start a family, and think about saving for retirement. I know all that.

All logic aside....I'm going to indulge my inner voice.

It's funny. There's this saying, "You have to decide to decide." The moment I made the decision, things started to come into alignment. Although my departure is probably two years away and I still have to chart my course, all those niggly details on the home front are starting to fall into place. My friend Tamara has offered to be a steward for my furniture that's worthwhile. I know where my bulging cookbook collection will reside. The rest...suddenly went from treasured possessions to just stuff...and a burden I'll happily leave behind.

It sounds so grandiose to say, "I'm going around the world."

The truth of the matter is, at this point, I'm still trying to narrow the dream down to....Northern Hemisphere or Southern Hemisphere?

If you've got a favorite place....let's hear it! I'm taking any and all suggestions.

New Man in Town

Jonathan Kauffman's the new food writer over at Seattle Weekly..and I adore him! He skips the highbrow and the hot & trendy....and goes straight for the ethnic side of life. This is my kind of guy....

Jonathan's seductive reviews have sent me into areas of the city I never knew existed. Based on his recommendations, I've ventured new territory in search of damn fine Mexican food (Yes, it can be had in Seattle!), as well as Indonesian, Korean, and Taiwanese.

He's also managed to expose the city to salumi--beyond Mario's dad. When the lines get the best of you over at that other place, consult Jonathan's list. Da Pino and others are waiting for you with open arms!

I follow Jonathan's reviews like a crack addict lookin' for a fix.

This week it's Eritrean and Ethiopian:

"The scent of fresh ginger glimmers in the mild turmeric-tinted split peas and brings out the sweetness of carrots and cabbage. Okra is stewed with berbere until the pods' slimi-ness melts away, and the red lentils are imbued with even more of the ruddy spice mixture. Enough spice, in fact, to make you reach for your beer."

After a description like that, I bet you can guess where I'm going for lunch!

Even if you don't live in Seattle, if you've got an interest in foods from around the world, Jonathan is your man. His descriptions are so vivid and informative, they're worth a read....wherever you are.

Valentine's Day + Restaurant = Romance?

Here's a tip from me to you: NEVER eat out on Valentine's Day!

Seriously.

All hell breaks loose.

Whether you as a dining patron know it or not, there is chaos happening somewhere.

Most restaurants...even the ones that never fill to capacity, are busting at the seams on Valentine's Day. Greedy managers take every reservation...whether they can realistically accommodate them or not. Every staff member is required to work, but it's never enough.

Don't believe me?

Well, there's the Valentine's Day where my usual 5 table section became 14 tables.

Or the year they did a big ad campaign and we ran out of the featured "Steak Lover's" special...before 7:00.

With a restaurant filled to capacity, ticket times also take twice as long....or more. The kitchen crew starts to get creative about how to rush tickets. You really don't want to know what they do to your food.

Trust me.

If you're looking to treat your sweetie to a romantic night out...pick another night. Preferably not a weekend flanking Valentine's Day, either. The crews are tired...and worked to the point of exhaustion. That week especially...they really could care less about your food.

***

So having said all that, you still want to do something with your sweetie, right? I mean, this is a national holiday where you are expected to spread a little love....

But this year, Valentine's Day is on a week night and you really don't want to cook an elaborate meal.

Going out was the easy solution...so now what???

Make a braise.

Nothing says love like the flavors developed in a good braise.... And it's even better the next day! You could make this dish the day before and serve it on date night.

It's the perfect solution.

Here's a recipe I've been fooling around with...and it's fabulous! This dish benefits from the slow braise--creating a tender meat that falls apart in a symphony of deep, luscious flavors. Add it to a platform of creamy polenta or mashed potatoes and you are ready for l'amour!


Slow-Braised Pork with Black Grapes and Balsamic
adapted ever so slightly from Epicurious.com

1 3 1/4-pound boneless pork shoulder (Boston butt), trimmed, cut into 3 equal pieces
4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
8 large shallots, halved, cut into 1/4-inch-thick slices (about 3 cups)
3 cups seedless black grapes (about 1 pound)
2 tablespoons sugar
1/2 cup balsamic vinegar
2 cups low-salt chicken broth
2 large fresh sage sprigs
6 large fresh thyme sprigs, divided
3 large fresh rosemary sprigs, divided
1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes (optional)

Preheat oven to 325°F.

Sprinkle pork with salt and pepper. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in heavy large ovenproof pot over medium-high heat. Add pork to pot and cook until browned on all sides, about 13 minutes total. Transfer pork to plate; discard fat in pot.

Heat remaining 2 tablespoons oil in same pot over medium heat. Add shallots and grapes; sauté until shallots are golden, stirring occasionally, about 3 minutes. Add sugar; sauté 30 seconds. Add vinegar; bring mixture to boil and cook until slightly reduced, about 3 minutes. Add broth, the sage, 3 thyme sprigs, 2 rosemary sprigs and and pork with juices from plate. Bring to boil.

Cover pot and transfer to oven. Braise pork 1 hour. Using tongs, turn pork over, add remaining thyme and rosemary sprigs. If using, add crushed red pepper flakes. Continue braising until meat is very tender, about 45 minutes longer.

Using slotted spoon, transfer pork to platter; tent with foil. Remove herb sprigs from pot and skim fat from surface of cooking liquid. Boil cooking liquid over high heat until thickened, about 7 minutes.

Season sauce with salt and pepper. Pour over pork and serve.

Note: This dish reheats beautifully.

Rush Job

Photo shoot with my hero, Mark

I received a voicemail: "Hi, this is X from 'hip and happening magazine'. I'm working on our annual Best Restaurant issue."

I breathe a sigh of relief...it looks like Chef's won another award.

Next comes the ask. This call means they want something. By now I've learned....they never call to say "Congratulations."

"We'd love to run a photo for our upcoming issue. Do you have any new shots?"

Damn.

I've been bugging the Chef for 6 months..."I need new photos. I can't keep sending these old food shots...they've seen them all."

I even went so far as to interview a slew of photographers this summer.

I KNEW this moment was coming. And now it's here.

I've got nothing.

I put a quick call in to the magazine...and leave a voicemail, "How soon do you need these shots?"

Any significant delay means they may fill the space without your photos. We'll have to move quickly.

I call the Chef. I call my photographer buddy. And clear my calendar.

We're shooting new photos in two days.

The glorious day arrives and I show up at the restaurant. My photographer buddy is all set up and chef is cooking the first dish.

This is going well.

No major mishaps along the way and we get, hopefully, some good shots. I have the ability to preview photos on site, but I won't know the real story until I blow them up on a computer.

We shoot photos for five hours.

At home, I slog through the abreviated list of photos....all 868.

Yep.

868.

Out of the mass, I have to pick a short list for editing.

I analyze every shot, looking to find the most perfect ones:

I like the lighting on this shot and the front focus on that one.
But chef prefers photos that don't blur out of focus towards the back.
I wonder if I can get him to accept this photo anyway....

On this batch, the trail of oh-so-stylish sauce has run. It's now
a blob at the bottom of the shot I like best. Good thing I had the sous
re-plate that dish or all of those photos would be ruined.

And so it goes...

Tomorrow I'll review the edited photos and send them off to the magazine.

Then, hopefully, fingers crossed, we'll have something they deem worthy for print.

Welcome to a day in my world....only 528 photos to go....

Guess Who Came to Dinner?

Tony Bourdain, author of "Kitchen Confidential", "The Nasty Bits", and host of

Travel Channel's "No Reservations"

Sometimes my "What if..." moments go deliriously well....

I had a new client.

This time last year, I was working as a guest chef booker for a local cooking school and their secret underground restaurant (shhhh...).

Rising to the challenge, I wanted to put Seattle on the map...and draw in some big names. (True to my nature, I never think small!)

So I sent out several e-mails...and invited some culinary superstars to our little corner of the world.

What did I know????

In hindsight, not much.

Certainly not enough to be intimidated....that would come later!



I sent the following e-mail to Tony Bourdain's people:

"Flying under the radar of the authorities...this (underground restaurant) is where Seattle chefs come to play! The clientele is sophisticated foodies who appreciate all the chef's creativity--no worrying about profit margins or what will sell. Two nights a month, this crowd gathers, underground at an undisclosed location, for pure culinary magic! Would Tony like to come out and play with us?"

Two months later, I received this response:

"I'm the segment producer for the series 'Anthony Bourdain: No Reservations'. We're actually planning on shooting in the Pacific NW in June, and I'd love to look into the possibility of organizing a shoot at one of the 'underground' restaurants in Seattle. Let's talk."

Oh

MY

GOD!

Astonished, I stared blankly at my computer screen...and read the e-mail again. When it finally sunk in, I whooped and hollered...and did a little jig in my living room!

I couldn't believe it!!

Seriously, it took me two days to regain my composure enough to respond, "Yes, I'd love to discuss this opportunity...."

Fingers crossed...and after months of planning, this dinner finally came together.

Even better? Tony had some friends in Seattle and he wanted to make sure they were there too...a former Iron Chef Challenger, and the owner of one of Seattle's legendary restaurants.

It was too good to be true!

Without a doubt, it's a night I'll never forget and luckily, I had some friends in on the experience too. Yes, my pals in the kitchen kept peeking their heads in...and making faces at me off camera! Thanks to you all (D, D, & B) for easing my nerves...and reminding me this was supposed to be fun.

Well, who knows what will make it through the editing process, but the Pacific Northwest episode airs for the first time tomorrow:

Monday, January 15th on the Travel Channel (10:00pm ET/PST)

To view photos from the Portland, OR segment, click here.

***

Dream big, people. Sometimes they really do come true!

Eatery Annals

Disclaimer: None of these stories reflect the restaurants I'm currently associated with....

When you see an elected official take office, a movie premier, or even the grand opening of a new building...you can be assured...there's more to the story than meets the eye.

Trust me.

I've been there.

Every large scale project is riddled with someone's blood, sweat, tears...and multiple compromises.

The restaurant business is no different.

In fact, in all my years working in restaurants, I never stopped thinking that restaurants were more like theater....the show MUST go on.

And there's plenty of blood, sweat, and tears.

But no matter what happened before, during, or after your shift, if well orchestrated, the customer never knew what happened.

That's the goal.

Seasoned pros make it look flawless.

Ah, but if you ever gather restaurant folks together over drinks...and start swapping restaurant tales, things digress in a hurry. It doesn't get any better! Inevitably I laugh so hard, serious injury might occur...or at least loss of bladder control.

I've been reading a fabulous blog...written by an American woman working in a French 3 star kitchen. The working conditions are brutal...the shifts are long...and the chef is a tyrant. Her experience brings back a flood of memories for me.

No, I didn't work in the kitchen of a 3 star restaurant, but I've been out front, dealing with the public in plenty of restaurants.

Tyrannical chef vs. general public.

I couldn't tell you which is worse.

All I know is, when you work front of the house, you have to deal with BOTH!



So when I'm sitting down with the restaurant folk, laughing in our beers....what stories do I tell?

Well, for starters...several years ago, I worked for a restaurant out in the 'burbs. During that time, there was a ton of condo development. Every scrap of land was being built on....and it stirred up the local rat population. Rats would run for cover...and find new homes.

Almost daily the prep crew would come in and find a rat trapped in the stainless steel sinks (once the rats fell in the sink, they couldn't get out). The kitchen guys maintained a BB gun for "rat removal." This went on for months...

It got to the point where, eventually, the guys got a little jaded about it. I mean they killed a lot of rats during those days....And boys, being boys, they'd start being creative about the bodies. We'd find dead rats hidden in our purses, or punt kicked back by the dumpster, or some rats purposely wouldn't get thrown away...so the guys could study the decomposition.

Um, yeah.

It wasn't long before I transferred to our other location.


Inevitabley, when we're swappin' restaurant tales...there are a hundred stories about:

* reoccurring "waitressing nightmares"

* the days you work double shifts and your legs are so fatigued they don't stop shaking long enough for you to sleep

* how you pop Advil like it was candy just to mask the pain at the end of your shift....then you realize it's even better if you load up before your shift....

* the owner who wouldn't fire his worst employee...because the 17 year old snowboarding punk was actually his drug dealer.

* the bartender who claimed his eyes were red because he went swimming before his shift. Truth is, he was really smokin' pot out in the parking lot!

* traveling salesmen with expense accounts...who treat waitresses like prostitutes, "Hey honey, wanna have a drink after work?" It's always the young servers who are flattered by the pursuit of a Vice President from Some-Company-You've-Never-Heard-Of.


If we ever meet over drinks, I could tell you about the time we called the police on my customers.

Yep.

Grandma's birthday party...and three squad cars!

Needless to say, I didn't get tipped from that table....but whatever money I lost that night, paid for the doozy of a story I can tell today!


In Kitchen Confidential, Tony Bourdain revealed the restaurants' underbelly to the masses. The reality is, if you've worked in the business long enough, we all have stories like Tony's.

Frosting the Devil in a Winter Wonderland

It snowed in pellets last night...a proverbial sea of white...more like dip n' dots than flakes of snow. The mini snowballs fell from the skies, creating a winter wonderland....and a hell of a commute home.

Taking a cue from the weather, this devil's food cake with fluffy white frosting called to me....

Believe it or not, this is the first cake I've made since my Easy Bake Oven days.

Sure, I bake a lot, but cakes are not my thing. My sweet tooth has leanings towards the more dense...and preferably naked...cookies and brownies. I'm all for gilding the lily, but not with cookies. I'll take mine unadorned...and unfrosted, thank you.

There lies my problem with cake....it's the frosting.

The American standard often includes a cloyingly sweet frosting that, for me, is downright inedible. Whenever I do eat cake...weddings, birthdays, or other causes for celebration, I'll often bypass the frosting altogether. An unattractive heap lies at the side of my plate, validating my usual dessert motto: ABC or, Anything But Cake.

But this is the New Year, and I'm branching out. I'm taking my own culinary road less traveled.

Destination: C-A-K-E.

First stop...Devil's Food Cake with a Cloud of White Frosting:

This is based on a Godiva recipe featured in Chocolatier magazine. The layers are built with moist devil's food cake and a mortar of bittersweet ganache. Topped with an egg white-based frosting that is heated and whipped, this is my kind of cake!

Sitting in front of a blazing fire with the snow falling softly outside...this frosting brought back a flood of childhood memories. Something about it was strangely familiar...and I couldn't get that sense of nostalgia out of my head.

Then it hit me: Marshmallows!

The next morning, I broke out my torch and toasted the frosting. Bruleeing adds a delicious kiss of caramel.

This cake will have you yearning for a blazing fire...and a tall glass of milk!

Devil's Food Cake with a Cloud of White Frosting

Adapted from Godiva

For the cake:

2 1/4 cups granulated sugar

1 3/4 cups cake flour (not self-rising)

1 1/4 cups Dutch processed cocoa powder

2 1/4 teaspoons baking soda

1 1/4 teaspoons baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

3 large whole eggs

1 large egg yolk

1 tablespoon vanilla extract

1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted and cooled

1 1/2 cups buttermilk

1 tablespoon of instant espresso mixed with 3/4 cup warm water, then cooled

****

For the Chocolate Filling:

2 bars (8 oz, total) Ghiradelli bittersweet chocolate bars, broken in 1/2" pieces

1 cup + 2 tablespoons heavy cream

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

****

For the Frosting:

5 large egg whites (room temperature)

1 1/2 cups granulated sugar

1/3 cup water

1/2 teaspoon cream of tartar

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

****

For the cake:
Preheat oven to 350°F. Butter bottom and sides of two 9-inch round cake pans. Dust pans with cocoa powder and tap out excess.

In large mixing bowl, sift together sugar, flour, cocoa powder, baking soda, baking powder and salt. Set aside.

In medium mixing bowl, whisk together whole eggs and egg yolk until combined. Whisk in vanilla extract and melted butter. Whisk in buttermilk and coffee. Pour buttermilk mixture into dry ingredients and whisk just until smooth. Pour batter into prepared pans, dividing it equally.

Bake 30 to 35 minutes or until edges of cakes pull away from sides of pans and a toothpick inserted into center of each cake comes out clean. Cool cakes on wire racks for 20 minutes. Invert cakes onto racks and cool completely.

****

For the filling:
Place chocolate in medium bowl. In medium saucepan, heat cream until it comes to gentle boil. Pour hot cream over chopped chocolate. Allow mixture to stand for 5 minutes to allow chocolate to melt. Stir mixture until it is smooth and chocolate is completely melted. Stir in vanilla extract.

Set bowl containing chocolate mixture into larger bowl of ice water and stir mixture constantly for about 5 minutes or until it is a spreadable consistency. Remove bowl of filling from ice water and set aside until ready to fill cake.

****

For the frosting:
In large, deep bowl, combine egg whites, sugar, water and cream of tartar. With hand-held electric mixer, beat mixture until foamy, about 1 minute.

Place bowl over saucepan of simmering water, making sure that bottom of bowl does not touch water. Beat constantly at low speed until mixture reaches 160°F., about 7 minutes. Remove bowl from heat, add vanilla, and beat frosting at high speed until it holds stiff peaks, about 7 minutes.

****

Assemble the cake:
Using long serrated knife, cut each cake layer in half horizontally to make 2 layers. Place one layer cut-side up on serving plate and spread with generous 1/2 cup rich chocolate filling (I used less...). Repeat twice and top with last cake layer.

Using large offset metal spatula, spread the frosting first around sides, then over top of cake, piling it in dramatic swirls. Serve immediately or refrigerate and bring to room temperature before serving.

****

To brulee the frosted cake:

Use a kitchen torch or a plumber's blow torch. The sugar in the frosting will caramelize much more quickly than you might expect. Start with the flame about 6" away from the frosting and proceed to brown. Go for patches of brown instead of an all over color to avoid burning.

****

Note: For the cake pictured above, I did not use all the frosting or the filling. I had about 1 1/2 cups frosting left and 3/4 cup of the filling.

To use up the frosting: Spread thickly on a Silpat and toast with your kitchen torch or plumber's blow torch. It's a softer, more moist alternative to marshmallows. Toasted or not, this is a perfect topper for hot chocolate.

For the left over filling: Make truffles out of it. Roll portions of chocolate in small balls (I prefer mine the size of large grapes), then roll again in your choice of cocoa powder, coconut, or crushed nuts.

Gold Medal Pancakes

Now that the winter rains are in full swing, the damp Seattle air drives me inside. After the crazy pace of the past few months, I look forward to home cooked meals and catching up with friends. Braises, soups, and breakfast goodies signal a slower pace of life, if only for a little while....

My friend Lisa D. and I both gave up conventional employment this year and so, in the middle of the week, she arrived at my home for brunch. It felt quite decadent. Outside, a slow drizzle of rain soaked the fallen leaves. Inside, Lisa's warmth and energy lit up the room.

Good fortune has smiled on me. Counted among my closest friends are some ridiculously talented people...and Lisa is one of them.

In her younger days, Lisa was a competitive swimmer. In fact, she qualified for the 1980 Olympic Games in Moscow.

At that time, Cold World tensions with Russia were high. When the Soviets invaded Afghanistan, President Jimmy Carter led a multi-national protest. The result?

The U.S., along with 64 other countries, boycotted the Moscow Olympic Games.

All of Lisa's training and sacrifices were meaningless in the face of politics.


Then, as it so often does, life got in the way. She was unable to compete for the next Olympics. Eventually the pattern of day to day living and other obligations moved her away from swimming.

When I first met Lisa, she was emerging from a 20 year hiatus...and finally started swimming again. It wasn't long before she got serious about training and entered a couple local meets.

Each race fueled her desire to win.

She hired a nutritionist, worked out in the gym for hours every day, and swam even more. Success in the pool spurred multiple positive changes in her life.

At 45 years old, Lisa is now the World Champion in Master's Swimming.

She is currently seated:

- 1st in the 50 meter butterfly
- 2nd in the 50 meter freestyle
- 1st in the 200 meter freestyle relay...AND set the world record!

I couldn't be more proud of her.

So on that rainy Tuesday, Lisa arrived a very different woman than the one I first met. Over fruit and pancakes, we laughed about our blunders in the past...and looked at the future with limitless possibilities.


Blueberry Cornmeal Pancakes
adapted from Cafe Beaujolais by Margaret S. Fox

In this recipe, whipped egg whites create a light and fluffy pancake. The addition of cornmeal adds a bit of tooth, followed by buttermilk, which provides a slight tang. A sprinkle of sugar before flipping, caramelizes the pancakes ever so slightly.

1 1/4 cups flour
1 tsp baking powder
3 1/2 Tb sugar
1/2 Tb baking soda
1/2 tsp salt
1 cup cornmeal (I used 1/2 fine, 1/2 medium grind cornmeal)
2 cups buttermilk
3 eggs, separated
3 tbsp unsalted butter, melted
1 cup blueberries (fresh or frozen) additional sugar, if desired

Note: You can use frozen blueberries. Add them partially defrosted; the heat and steam will thaw them.

Sift together all dry ingredients. Mix together buttermilk, egg yolks, and butter with dry ingredients. Beat egg whites until stiff but not dry, and fold into the batter.

Pour 1/4 cup batter onto a hot griddle and top with about 2 tablespoons blueberries on each pancake. Sprinkle top with a light dusting of sugar.

Cook until bubbles form and start popping on top.

Flip cakes with wide spatula and brown the other side. The sugar will caramelize slightly.

Turn pancakes only once, and take care not to press down on them to accelerate the browning process.

The Asian Noodle Map

Noodlepie just posted about this fabulous Asian Noodle map.

Take a look at the interactive version...and see noodles from Shanghai to Sri Lanka!

Exploring Instant Ramen

I'll admit...in my first apartment, my roommate and I would buy Top Ramen by the case. More concerned with buying shoes than food, thanks to Top Ramen, we could feed ourselves for pennies a day!

Unfortunately, my exposure to ramen was also exclusively limited to the Top Ramen lineup: chicken, beef, or shrimp.

It was a pivital moment when Chef began preparing a cup of ramen for his lunch. Knowing him to be extremely particular about food, I called his bluff. "You're joking. You're not going to eat that!"

A boyish grin came across his face, "Yes I am....It's good!"

I eyed him dubiously.

With a walk-in cooler filled with the finest gourmet ingredients....Chef actually chose to eat ramen! Granted, the package instructs you to guild the ramen lilly by adding an egg--he used a duck egg...but no other modifications were necessary.

Watching him happily slurp long strands of noodles....clearly, I needed to investigate.

Could there be good ramen?

My ramen quest brought me to Seattle's Uwajimaya. This place is a culinary wonderland of Asian ingredients. You can find durian, bitter melon, live abalone as well as countless types of nori, tofu, chilies...and yes, ramen.

The ramen isle at Seattle's Uwajimaya

The selection of ramen at Uwajimaya is staggering. Less than 20% of the packaging has English...but thankfully, many of them feature pictorial diagrams. Smiling cartoon characters with the occasional pig or chicken depiction...provided a clue about the contents.

And if the selection above isn't overwhelming enough...that's just the varieties that don't come in a cup or a bowl! The other side of the isle features this bountiful selection:

Luckily, ramen is also cheap. Good packaged ramen may cost a little more...but it's still usually under $1.

I tried several different varieties and they were all much better than the ramen I remembered. Most varieties had the familiar spice packet...but some featured an additional packet with optional chili oil or spices for an extra kick. No doubt, these ramen were much more flavorful.

Further research revealed a whole world of ramen I knew nothing about....blogs dedicated to ramen here and if you want recipes with your ramen...check out this site.

I also discovered lovely trivia:

Maruchan, the manufactuer of Top Ramen, makes the equivalent of 81 million miles of ramen, annually. It's mind-boggling when you think...in one year, Maruchan cranks out enough ramen to circumnaviate the earth 3,253 times!

Not long after I began exploring ramen, I learned of a museum in Japan that was dedicated to the stuff. The Shin-Yokohama Ramen Museum features the historical development of instant ramen. The walls are lined with examples of ramen packets and commercials from around the world. They even have ramen-themed video games!

Finally, I learned that the history of Japanese ramen is really quite fascinating. After WWII, Japan was experiencing food shortages. As part of post-war reparations, the US gave wheat to the Japanese. An inventor named Ando decided if they could use the wheat to make noodles---instead of bread, people could eat a more well-balanced meal.

Ando explored noodles that were dried and then could simply be rehydrated. But then, after watching his wife cook tempura, he was inspired to make a noodle that was fried, then dried. Ando found that when reheated, the fried noodles would absorb broth and as a result, make a more flavorful noodle. He was the inventor of what ultimately became "Cup of Noodles," which spurned a myriad of instant noodle choices.

Now, turning the tables....I'm curious. Dear reader, fess up! How do YOU like your ramen????

What's in a name?

I went to a cocktail party the other night...and struck up conversation with one of the most handsome men I've ever seen. He was positively breathtaking...and I made a point to say hello, naturally!

The conversation went a little something like this:

"Hi, I'm Traca."

"I'm Michael." No need to say anything more. I was swooning already!

Then he kept talking...and I wish he hadn't.

"What's your name again????"

Ah...here we go....people often have trouble with my name.

I sounded it out slowly. "Tray....suh...."

"Okay. Theresa, this is my friend John."

John pipes in, "Did you say it's Theresa or Traca?"

"Traca."

Mr. Handsome is still struggling with it. "Tracy???"

"No, Traca. Like Tracy with an A on the end instead of a Y."

"Theresa?" Okay, clearly he wasn't a spelling champ.

"No, like you trace a line. Tray-suh...."

"That's crazy."

Suddenly my fantasies of him were far more appealing than the reality!

"What kind of a name is that?"

It's okay, I've been explaining the name my entire life.

Here's the story: My older brother was 3 years old when my mom was pregnant. My parents were discussing a name for their unborn child (me). Suddenly, my brother pipes up and says, "Traca." He meant to say "Tracy," but his 3 year old self couldn't sound out the vowels.

Inspired, my parents decided to go with "Traca."

And so it is.

People ask me if it's actually on my birth certificate.

Yes, it is.

Today, for the most random of reasons, I Googled my name. It turns out "traca" is actually a word in Spanish. Ironically, I've lived my whole life never knowing that. (When I travel in Spanish speaking countries, I have the least issues of all. Now I know why...)

Here's the definition:

traca f
1 (de fuegos artificiales) firecrackers
2 fig (final explosivo, sorprendente) spectacular finale

What's in a name? Now, I finally know!

Indeed.

For the Love of Chocolate

Have you ever wondered what makes premium chocolate command $5 a bar? Of course, driving the prices are a number of economic factors...equipment, labor, quality of beans, etc. Blah, blah, blah....

But seriously, after reading this excellent demonstration on making chocolate bars from scratch...I'll never balk at paying for good chocolate again!

Another great site discussing the wonders of making chocolate is Chocolate Alchemy: The Art & Science of Homemade Chocolate. While you're there, take a look at the Alchemist's Notebook....and sign up for the newsletter. Fascinating.

And if candies and truffles make you swoon....explore your inner chocolatier fantasies at Ecole Chocolate. These online classes have impressed the likes of chocolate gurus David Lebovitz and Michael Recchiutti. The Ecole's next class begins January 5th...talk about kicking off the new year right....

The Blackout of '06

Chocolate cranberry oatmeal cookies = Chewy Goodness!

Confessions of a cookbook junkie: gearing up for Holiday baking, I realized a deficiency in my cookbook collection. Happily perusing Amazon, ordered myself several books dedicated to cookies....and waited with delicious anticipation!

And then my power went out.

For days.

Seriously.

On December 14th, the weather forecasted severe gusts of wind with advisory precautions. I cranked up the heat, set my travel alarm, and went to bed. As predicted, I woke up with no power.

My area was hit especially hard and within miles of my home, only a small pocket remained functional.

I'd never experienced anything this severe, but figured we'd get power by the end of the day. Then I waited over an hour in line for gas. Things would not return to normal anytime soon.

I learned later that 80 transformers were damaged in the storm and over a million people in the Seattle metropolitan area were without power.

As the temperature inside my home approached the winter temperatures outside, I tried to find a place to stay for the night. The problem was, most of my friends were also in the dark.

Finally, a chef friend of mine invited me to stay with her. We made cookies together and I hoped for power the next day.

No such luck.

I ended up not having power for a total of 8 days.

Every night, I'd come home to check on the cat and grab more clothes by candlelight. As the days stretched on...the cookie books started to arrive. Vagabonding from one friend's home to another, I'd lie in bed and earmark all the wonderful cookies I'd make when I FINALLY got power again.

I'm now back in my home and things are beginning to return to normal. The grocery stores have all replaced their meat, dairy & frozen food sections, gas supplies have stablized, and nearly everyone has their power restored.

In spite of the delay, I'm starting my baking frenzy....and this chocolate cranberry oatmal cookie was first on my list. Deliciously moist and chewy with just a hint of spice...I must admit...they were worth the wait!

May you have a wonderful and warm holiday...enjoyed with treasured friends and family....and a fistful of these cookies!

*****

Author's note: These are extra chewy due to the melted butter. Browning the butter gives them a very rich flavor.

Chocolate Cranberry Oatmeal Cookies

Adapted from Dede Wilson's "A Baker's Field Guide to Christmas Cookies"

2 2/3 cups rolled oats (use old-fashioned, not quick or instant)

1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 cup dried cranberries

6 ounces bittersweet chocolate (I used Ghiradelli chips)

1/2 cup walnut halves, finely chopped

1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter

1 1/3 cups firmly packed light brown sugar

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

2 large eggs

1 teaspoon vanilla

Directions:

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Line 2 cookie sheets with Silpats or parchment.

2. Whisk oats, flour, baking soda, and salt together in a medium bowl. Stir in dried cranberries, chocolate, and nuts.

3. In a medium saucepan, melt butter over medium heat. Continue to simmer over medium-low heat until the milk solids turn golden brown, about 4 minutes. (The foaming will subside when you are about 3/4 of the way there....) Take care not to burn.

4. Pour browned butter into a large bowl and whisk in brown sugar until combined. Whisk in cinnamon, then whisk in eggs and vanilla, beating well after each addition.

5. Add dry mixture to wet ingredients and stir until just combined. Mixture will be thick. Using a 2 tablespoon capacity ice cream scoop, drop 2" apart onto cookie sheets.

6. Bake until light and golden brown and just dry to the touch, but still a little soft inside, about 10 minutes (no shiny spots in between the oatmeal). Immediately remove them from the baking sheet and let cool on a rack.

Coup in Bangkok

Tanks in Bangkok (click photo for a larger view)

After viewing an emergency BBC broadcast, I sent the following note home:

Hi there. I've just seen the BBC news and a military coup claims to have taken over the government. Apparently there are tanks and military personnel on the streets of Bangkok.

I want you to know I am here still on the island of Phi Phi. Before the news of the coup, I bought a ticket back to Bangkok and I will be arriving there tomorrow.

According to my guide book, Thailand is famous for military coups. They maintain an elected and an appointed government with the military fluctuating in power. I suspect the same for this.

Please know I will take all reasonable safety precautions. If my plans change for any reason, I'll be sure to send an e-mail.

***
Now I've been in Seattle in the middle of the WTO riots and in Havana, Cuba during protests for the return of Elian Gonzalez. Upon arriving in Bangkok, I was prepared for mayhem.

The reality was quite different than the media broadcasts.

Thai citizens were unfathomed by the military presence. In fact, they were bringing water and ice cream to troops in the streets.

The Bangkok Post and other papers reported the coup more in terms of a protest by the military. No violence was anticipated...and every Thai citizen seemed aware of this.

However, the international news and the US government had a completely different reaction. In fact, days later, the US imposed sanctions on Thailand. SANCTIONS! We have imposed sanctions against North Korea and Iraq...but Thailand? I was stunned.

In Thailand, what takes precedence over any elected or appointed government official is loyalty to the King.

Note: In the photo above, soldiers have garlands of yellow flowers draped over the nose of the tanks. Citizens, who have come to take photos, also wear yellow shirts. Yellow is the symbol of loyalty to the king. As long as the King was not being threatened, there was no great concern.

In fact, according to an article written by the BBC, the present King of Thailand has held his reign through 17 military coups, 20 different prime ministers, and 15 constitutions.

Scuba Diving off Ko Phi Phi

Diving in the Andaman Sea

It had been my dream to dive in the Andaman Sea. Although I didn't have much hope, I knew whale sharks could be found in these waters. Noted by their white spots, an average adult whale shark is the size of a school bus! Technically, whale sharks are filter feeders and don't pose a threat to divers.

Once arriving on Ko Phi Phi, I headed for a dive shop. The reefs near the island were damaged in the tsunami, but very close by, there was still some excellent diving. I booked a trip for the following day.

Just a short 30 minute ride and we arrived at our first dive location. My dive buddy was an Italian guy who spoke limited English, but had logged over 200 dives. The signals in diving are universal, so we had no problem understanding each other. Our dive master was a guy from Texas, who was supposed to go back home 3 months ago....ah, the island life!

Both these divers were excellent and the Italian guy had a really great eye. He was the first to spot a turtle...and a reef shark. While I never did see a whale shark, we spotted white-eyed moray eels, angel fish the size of dinner plates, a lion fish, and tons of other tropical fish. The diving was easy...and shallow enough to reveal the vivid tropical colors.

Surfacing along the face of limestone rock spires was incredible. While we waited for the boat to pick us up, we bobbed on the surface of the water and studied the rock walls. Birds' nests and trees were anchored precariously along the rock face. Occasionally we'd spy a cave or see remnants of waterfalls now turned dry.

Between dives, I sat out on the bow of the boat. The sun reflected off the water and gave me a terrible burn. That put an end to any more days of diving...and my search for the elusive whale shark.

Island Lodging

My trusty Lonely Planet Guide was published right after the tsunami, so there was limited mention of lodging on the island. This is where my networking on the backpacker trail came in handy. I met a guy who had recently come from Phi Phi. He said finding lodging was no problem and the water was beautiful. So although I had no idea where I might be able to sleep, I boarded the ferry and headed over anyway.

Once on the island, waiting locals rushed to sell rooms. Laminated photos faded from the sun advertised limited choices. Naturally, they lobbied hard to sell the most expensive rooms first. After those were sold, they conceded and finally spoke to me about more humble offerings.

In the frenzy to snag a room, I agreed to stay at a place within a "7 minute walk to the beach" and a "10 minute walk to town". They shuttled me off to a motorcycle with my pack and I in a side car. We carefully navigated through the rough path. Most of the roads were under construction and the rest were still barely serviceable after the tsunami's destruction. No doubt it was one of the scariest rides of my life!

We somehow manage to arrive at the guest house alive and without damage. The driver immediately whisked my big backpack to my room while I checked in on the red mud street (like Georgia clay). Check in was a table on the side of the road. I kept thinking...the pictures looked nice.....

I entered my room. I had my own private toilet and shower, which was an improvement over the place I stayed in Chiang Mai. I spied my bag in the corner...check...it made it. Then I took in a deep breath and collapsed on the bed. What's that smell? I breathed in again, deeply. Stale and humid...it was the smell of mildew. I scanned the walls for any evidence of mold. Nothing. But the air was thick in the humidity and I couldn't get past the smell. It's then that I noticed an air freshener that long ago used up its life...and it was tied to the fan. My room had obviously been flooded in the tsunami.

While I waited for friends to meet me, I scoped out the local travel booking shops. They offered tours around the island, scuba diving, and rock climbing. Each shop had similar packages, but were slightly different (same same, but different!) I checked out a couple places in the amount of time it took my friends to go through the same hair-raising ride from the dock.

One shop I visited even books rooms. I took a look around. The buildings were wooden, newly constructed, and had beautifully landscaped grounds. I asked to see a room. It was positively stunning. Seriously. Straight out of Architectural Digest. Carved wood headboards, battique sheets and pillows, double bed. The bathroom was utterly beautiful with a skylight, French doors leading to the bedroom, tropical plants and orchids everywhere...in the BATHROOM!

The stench in my room haunted my memory.

My room was already paid for two nights, but I inquired anyway, "How much?"

Only 50 baht more than I paid!!! (36 baht = $1).

Unbelieveable!!

I asked if they had a vacancy two days from now. He had no idea. First preference went to guests already staying...and none of them appeared to be leaving soon.

I headed back to my room and stewed about what to do. Finally, I decided, to hell with it! I walked over, and booked that beautiful room for the next four nights.

Motioning behind me, the booking agent says says, "But you've already paid for a room over there."

"I don't care. I'm not staying."

He looked perplexed.

"Maybe you can get your money back."

The truth is, I wasn't really worried about it.

Just at that moment, two girls came up and inquired about a room. They obviously walked in the heat and the humidity from the boat. The guy tells him he is now fully booked. They were travel weary and frustrated.

I handed them the key to my old room, "Here you go...this one is paid for the next 2 nights. Enjoy!"

They couldn't believe their luck! "Seriously????"

"Yep, I just need to get my bag out of there."

"Oh...you're an ANGEL!"

It turns out they were traveling for a year and on a very meager budget. "We'll buy you a drink at the pub!"

No worries. I figured it was good backpacker karma.

They entered the room and said, "This is fine. We've stayed in worse."

I have too, but now I'm older and I've got a choice in the matter. I was not staying there....especially when contrasted with the room I got!

After the first day, I got a bad sunburn. Thankfully, staying out of the sun suddenly had an added appeal!

Post Tsunami on Ko Phi Phi

Sunset on one of Ko Phi Phi's beautiful horseshoe-shaped bays

Phi Phi island is located in the Andaman Sea, off the coast of Thailand. It is predominantly limestone, and features stunning spires off the coast. Three hours by boat from the mainland town of Phuket, for years, Phi Phi was an "insider's" paradise. As I understand it, five years ago, there were less than 10 tourist shops, no paved roads, and small huts on the beach.

Ko Phi Phi was severely damaged by the tsunami on December 26th, 2004. I went to the island to see not only the legendary beauty of the limestone spires, but also to see the progress made after the devastating tsunami. This photo shows the shape of the island. The water from the tsunami intensified as it was forced through the horseshoe bay. The isthmus connecting the two bays is only 3 meters above sea level, and this area is also where the heaviest concentration of tourists is located.

Backpackers and tsunami warnings...

Today the island is on the radar for backpackers and the well-heeled alike. 21 months after the tsunami, there is still a significant amount of construction. While I was there, investment for large scale projects ensured construction was continuous...7 days a week, 24 hours a day.

Being on an island has also impacted the recovery effort. Every brick, bag of cement, nail, and qualified employee has to be brought over by boat. All the remnants of the tsunami's destruction that could not be burned, also has to leave by boat. Construction materials and wages are 3-5 times higher than on the mainland. Piles of old mattresses, broken cinder blocks, shards of corrugated metal, and mountains of sandbags all claim ground wherever there is not a current construction project.

On the way to the beach...

Since the tsunami, not only is tourist lodging at a premium (thankfully I was traveling during the low season), but so is permanent housing. Buildings that were obviously still under construction were being inhabited by work crews. Walls waiting for glass shipments, donned lines of laundry drying in the sun.

I'd like to say I had a normal "beachy" time on Ko Phi Phi, but the remnants of the tsunami were still very much an impact and consequently never far from my mind...

Common Thai Cooking Ingredients

My list is in no way comprehensive, but it's a solid overview of typical fresh and dried Thai ingredients.

For a more comprehensive list, check out the Thai Food Ingredients website.

Also, for more elaborate descriptions of specific ingredients, consult one of my favorite resources...The Asian Food Glossary.

Peppercorns on the plant

****

Kaffir Lime Leaf

(recognized by the double segmented leaf, equal in size)

***

Like the Kaffir Lime leaf, except this has a lemon essence. Recognized by the double segmented leaf, but the thorns and the 1st leaf segment are shorter.

***

Galangal (The tall plant with the broad leaves)

The root is used in Thai cooking. It's a strong flavor similiar to ginger.

***

Center:

Fresh red chili known as a "big red" or "finger" chili (mild in flavor)

Clockwise:

Kaffir lime leaf
Eggplant
Cherry tomato
Pea eggplant (these have a thick skin and are bitter)
Green Grapes (the dish I prepared had them in the curry)
Fresh green peppercorns
Pineapple
Thai basil

***

Dry components for Thai red curry paste

Clockwise:
Corriander seeds

Cumin seeds

Salt

Cardamom pods (yes, really. In the US we have a different variety)

Black peppercorns

Mace (the pale vine-like outer layer of fresh nutmeg)

Long green peppercorns (conical shaped in appearance)

Center:

Dried Thai "big red" or "finger" chilies

***

Fresh Ingredients for Thai red curry paste

Clockwise:

Corriander root

Shallot (Thai shallots are much smaller than those typically found in the US)

Garlic

Kaffir lime peel

Ginza (already minced)

Shrimp paste ("smells like hell, tastes like heaven")

Lemongrass

***

Small Fresh Green Chili, refered to in my class as "rat dropping chili"

This is the hottest Thai chili.

***

Dried fish

***

Multiple kinds of rice: Thai long-grain (Jasmine), sticky, and toasted