7 Questions for Baking Guru Alice Medrich

Cookbook author, Alice Medrich

Oh, Alice. I've got big love for you!

Dubbed "The First Lady of Chocolate," Alice Medrich is an award-winning baker with deep understanding of ingredients, and how to coax the very best out of them. Her clear, thoughtful recipes yield memorable desserts. Pros-in-the know point to Alice as a guiding influence in their work. More than an author, she is a mentor...of the very best kind.

The launch of Alice's new blog traveled like wildfire and no wonder. This post on her creative process still resonates with me.

On a personal note, Alice was my very first interview. Over the phone, she patiently guided me through art of tasting chocolate. Before long, our conversation touched on everything from molecular gastronomy to sources of inspiration and artisan foods in Europe.

Alice has a new book coming out this fall, Chewy Gooey Crispy Crunch Melt-in-Your-Mouth Cookies, which is organized by texture. Got a love for chewy cafe cookies? Or do you like your cookies on the crispy side? This brilliant book has it all.

In preparation for my upcoming interview, I asked folks on my favorite chat forum..."Got any questions for Alice Medrich?" Responses ran the gamut--from tweaking a favorite recipe to swapping out chocolates with different cocoa fats. Alice surprised me with a lightening fast response, so here goes:


1. (Sandi in Hawaii) Sometimes, when I make a brownie with melted butter, the batter seems to separate during baking, as if the butter is oozing out, and pooling around the edges of the pan. The brownie ends up being dry and crumbly, instead of fudgy and chewy. What causes this?

This "butter leakage" also happens sometimes when baking cookies. The cookies start to spread like crazy, and end up being flat and greasy, instead of buttery and crunchy. It happened with a cookie recipe that called for melted butter, but it's also happened to other recipes that don't call for melted butter.

I can't predict when it happens - most times it doesn't. It only happens when I'm short on time, and have to take something somewhere!

I know the problem well, Sandi. Brownies batters (and cookie batters too) that have loads of chocolate and melted butter but not too much flour in them must be mixed vigorouly enough to emulsify the batter in the first place, before you pour it into the pan--otherwise the butter weeps out, exactly as you described. I have a couple of tricks to help the emulsification process, first, when making brownies, I usually add my eggs cold. Don't worry if the chocolate and butter mixture is hot; after you stir in the sugar, it's safe to add the eggs, stirring vigorously after each one. But, the most important tip is about mixing: after you add the flour, stir vigorously until the batter comes together into a smooth mass and actually pulls away from the sides of the bowl. If you are not strong enough to stir a heavy batter by hand, use a mixer. I write all about this problem in the new book...I hope you'll have a look.


2. (Sandi in Hawaii) How do you create a "new" recipe? Or are they all variations on old ones?

Someone once said that there is nothing new under the sun. The implication is that everything new had probably been done somewhere by someone...so it is quite possible that a bright new idea you might wake up with one morning, or even something you "discover" in the kitchen might have been thought of or dicovered by someone else as well. That being said, why worry about it? For me, sometimes new recipes are simple or elaborate variations on other recipes and sometimes they seem like brand new ideas discovered through experimenting or even (sometimes) by making a mistake. Voila! Something new and interesting.

For, example, in the new book, "Chewy Gooey Crispy"......., I include a recipe for Coconut Sticks, which I invented several years ago, but I've added several fantastic flavor variations, one with sesame seeds, one with coffee, one with hazelnuts. A great recipe deserves to be used as inspiration. Similar, I experimented with adding peanut butter to meringue and the result was so divine that I created several more "new" recipes by riffing on the concept, substituting almond butter, or tahini for the the pnb. That lead me to think about adding other flavors to meringue, such as pulverized freeze dried bananas....I even got a great recipe for fruit filled cookies called Meneinas, from a Facebook friend. I loved it so much that I created some brand new fruit fillings for it. They are in the book as well. One thing leads to another. New recipes are born...I hope you'll check out the book,


3. (MarilynFL) How do I adjust a recipe based on chocolate percentage? Say I want to make a recipe that calls for unsweetened chocolate. That recipe calls for "x" amount of unsweetened chocolate and "y" amount of sugar.

If I only have 55% semisweet chocolate or 70% bittersweet chocolate, how do I adjust the amount of chocolate AND sugar to make the recipe? I know the sugar amount has to go down. Does the fat (butter) amount change? Is there a basic rule of thumb?

Honestly Marilyn, and I don't mean to be self serving, the only book with this kind of information, charts, and discussion about percentages is my book "Bittersweet: Recipes and Tales From a Life in Chocolate". Check out the back of the book and the section on brownies where I address the very thing you are talking about...It's exciting information and once you get the hang of it you will love being able to switch from one percentage chocolate to another....

Just to give you a clue: 70% bittersweet contains 30% sugar, about 40% fat (this varies from brand to brand) and thus 30 percent dry cocoa solids. 55% semisweet chocolate contains 45% sugar, maybe 35% fat (again it varies) and only 20% dry cocoa solids. Unsweetened baking chocolate is approximately 50% fat and 50% dry cocoa solids and not sugar. If you are good at math, you can make some calculations about how to modify the sugar and butter in the recipe....! Otherwise, check out my book!


4. (MarylinFL) I actually ran into this problem [substituting chocolates] when I wanted to make chocolate fudge; the result was Dyslexic Chocolate Sauce. I had looked in both Alice's "Cocolat" and Fran Bigelow's "Pure Chocolate" books first to see if there was a chocolate conversion table.

"Cocolat" came out at a time before we had percentage chocolate in this country...most all of the bittersweet and semisweet chocolate available to us was contained only 50%-60% cacao, except of course for unsweetened baking chocolate. So, while "Cocolat" is still a great book and great reference, you shouldn't try making the recipes with chocolate that exceeds 60% cacao (or sometimes 62% ) without making some adjustments, or your results may not be quite what they should be. Some of the Cocolat recipes are updated in my book, "Bittersweet" and there is tons of info about making adjustments for chocolate in that book as well.


5. (Sandi in Hawaii) Will you start adding weight measurements in your cookbooks? I just love my scale, and wish more books had weights.

Some of my books already have weights in them, but I assure you that any new book that comes out from me will definitely include weights! Thanks for asking; I hope you'll encourage every baker you know to get a scale!!!


6. (Sandi in Hawaii -- obviously a big fan!) Any chance you'll reprint "Chocolat"?

No chance! I'd rather do new work. But I will give you a tip: many of the recipes from "Cocolat"appear again in "Bittersweet: Recipes and Tales from A Life in Chocolate", updated to reflect new chocolates and percentage chocolates, and new information. I suggest you check it out.


7. (cheezz) Why do these (otherwise yummy) macaroons 'weep'? They are oozing even before going into the oven and often make very unsightly looking bottoms.

You'll see Alice recommends:
- Amount of coconut is now cups
- Lower the amount of sweetened condensed milk
- Let the batter sit for an hour before baking
- Mound your batter in 2 tblsp portions
- Notes about the chocolate (a double boiler works, and it's likely you'll have some left over)


Original recipe + Alice's adjustments:

Jumbo Black Bottom Coconut Macaroons
From Big Fat Cookies by Elinor Klivans
Makes 16 small cookies or 10 large cookies


Cookies:
One 7-ounce bag (2 2/3 cups) shredded sweetened coconut
1/2 cup sweetened condensed milk [use 1/3 cup]
1/8 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoons almond extract
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 large egg white
Pinch of cream of tartar

Chocolate Coating:
9 ounces semisweet chocolate, chopped

Position a rack in the middle of the oven. Preheat the oven to 350° F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and butter the paper.

Make the cookies. In a large bowl, use a fork to stir the coconut, condensed milk, salt, almond extract and vanilla together. Set aside. [note: let this sit for about 1 hour to meld well]

In an impeccably clean medium bowl, use a whisk or a hand-held mixer on low speed to beat the egg white with the cream of tartar until they are foamy and the cream of tartar dissolves. Whisking vigorously or beating on medium-high speed, beat until soft peaks form. Whisk or beat in the sugar. Use a rubber spatula to fold half of the whipped egg white in the coconut mixture, then fold in the remaining white.

Scoop mounds of the coconut batter (about 2 tbl. size) onto the prepared baking sheet, spacing the macaroons 2 inches apart.

Bake until the bottoms of the cookies and the tips of the coconut shreds are light brown, about 20 minutes. Cool the cookies on the baking sheet for 5 minutes, then slide a metal spatula under the macaroons to loosen them from the parchment and transfer them to a wire rack to cool completely.

Make the chocolate coating. Put the chocolate in a heatproof container or the top of a double boiler and place it over, but not touching, a saucepan of barely simmering water (or the bottom of the double boiler) - or heat in microwave oven for about 1 min. Stir until the chocolate is melted and smooth. Remove from water and let cool to thicken slightly, about 10 min.

Scrape the chocolate coating into a small bowl. Dip the bottom of each macaroon in the chocolate and place the cookies, chocolate bottoms up or on the sides, on a wire rack. (You will have some chocolate coating left over for another use or to pour over ice cream. It's easier to dip using a larger amount of coating.) Let the macaroons sit at room temperature until the chocolate coating is firm, about 1 hour. Or, to speed the firming of the chocolate, refrigerate the macaroons on the rack for about 15 minutes. Serve cold or at room temperature.

The cookies can be stored in a covered container in the refrigerator for up to 5 days.

Cookbook Lover Confession: Shop Internationally

Above: (L-R) Harumi Kurihara is a Japanese chef who won a lifetime achievement award at the 2010 Gourmand World Cookbook Awards; Bobby Chinn's book Vietnamese Food (see more on him below); Rick Stein is a legend in the U.K. with a handful of restaurants, a hotel, and multiple television shows including Food Heroes; Anissa Helou is a London-based cookbook author, teacher, and chef who specializes in Mediterranean, Middle Eastern, and North African cuisines.

I'm a die-hard cookbook lover and truth be known, over the past few years, my addiction has exceeded our shores. Australia, Singapore, and the U.K. produce books with a different aesthetic--a small twist here and there that provides a unique perspective.

International cookbooks are fertile ground for new insights. Australia's Donna Hay revolutionized food photography. And thanks to a tip from a jet-setting executive, I discovered the U.K.'s Georgio Locatelli (author of this gem: Made in Italy) and Australia's Christine Mansfield (author of flavor-packed Fire and Spice.) While their titles are now available in the U.S., their books were on my radar long before hitting our shelves.

Ever heard of Bobby Chinn? Until the Worlds of Flavor Conference, I hadn't heard of him either. My loss. With a mischievous smile and exuding charisma, New Zealand-born Bobby Chinn has travel-based cooking shows on Asia's Discovery Channel (not available in the U.S.) He also has a restaurant in Vietnam and two books to his credit. Tony Bourdain says, "What Bobby doesn't know about Southeast Asian Cooking isn't worth knowing."

When it comes to international cookbooks, like foreign movies, eventually, the cream of the crop makes it to our shores, but the selection is limited...and often hard to find. To get my fix, I turn to Amazon's international sites. Suggested titles start the ball rolling and in no time, a name pops up and I wonder....who's that? They may be stars in their own country, yet utterly unknown to me.


Quick!

Name three celebrity chefs in the U.K. who are not Jamie Oliver, Gordon Ramsey or Nigella Lawson.

Stumped?

How 'bout this...who are the top chefs in Australia? France? Canada?


See?


A treasure trove of inspiration is just a click away.....


U.K.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/

Canada
http://www.amazon.ca/

France
http://www.amazon.fr/

Exploring the Link Between Food and Mood

Photo credit: Skinny Chef

For years, I have been struggling with a cyclical winter funk. Breezily dismissing the symptoms, I’d justify it, saying my normal outgoing self needed “down time.” Armed with a stack of books and an arsenal of films, I’d clear my dance card, pull a fluffy comforter high around my neck, and hibernate. Often, I was too tired to read and alternated between sleep and the drone of mindless TV. As the days turned into weeks, and the weeks—shockingly—slipped into months, alarm bells started going off.

What the hell?!

This is NOT normal.

I ran through a slew of possibilities. Seasonal Affective Disorder is quite common in northern climates. Or maybe I’m depressed? I went looking for answers…and it dawned on me.

I‘ve been researching the impact of early childhood nutrition and its impact on the brain. Maybe it was time to look at my own diet? I picked up a copy of “Food & Mood” and suddenly, things started to make sense.

Here’s what I found:

Your brain creates a hormone called serotonin, which regulates your mood. Commonly known as the "happiness hormone", when in check, serotonin is attributed to restful sleep, and helps moderate cravings for carbohydrate-rich sweets and starches. In fact, a critical step in managing symptoms associated with PMS, seasonal affective disorder, and depression is linked back to managing serotonin levels through nutrition. (The rising trend in anti-depressant drugs? Many of those drugs are designed to regulate serotonin levels. I chose to explore my eating habits first.)

Grumpiness and depression are brought on by low serotonin levels and dwindling energy reserves. This triggers cravings for carbohydrate-rich “comfort foods” like pastries, pasta, cereals, and breads. Once satisfied, the serotonin level elevates, and the cravings subside.

The problem? Fuel from these bad carbs is fleeting. Within a few hours, energy levels crash and the cycle—including the symptoms-- is repeated throughout the day.

I began studying the trends in my own eating behavior. For me, PMS and happiness equals a loaf of bread and a hunk of triple-cream Cambozola. Carb loading for serotonin? This made perfect sense. And I’d happily whip up a cake or a batch of brownies before I’d even think about dinner. Suddenly the reasons behind my bizarre eating habits were beginning to make sense.

Nutritionally, I was like a crack addict, constantly in need of a fix.

My drug of choice?

Carbs.

That, teemed with the constant dose of sugar…no wonder I was in a sad state. My serotonin levels were completely out of whack.

“Food and Mood” summed it best “The secret is to use the right kind of quality carbs to raise serotonin levels, without causing a spike in blood sugar levels, and get your mood back on track.”

I’d been dealing with this problem for so long, when I read those words, I nearly wept. Not only had this book identified my classic symptoms, but a solution was close at hand.

The key?

Quality carbs.

Whole grains sustain energy and help regulate cravings for sweets. As an added bonus they also help you manage weight and keep blood sugars at moderate levels. (Research says a diet rich in whole grains also helps lower the risk for heart disease, diabetes, hypertension and possibly cancer.) Breakfast is also a critical component.* The book discusses this is more detail but let’s just say, it’s non-negotiable. And so is exercise, which helps regulate the blood sugar levels and provides an energy boost—without the calories.

I’ve stocked up on oatmeal, opted for whole grain pastas, and for my bread cravings, I’m now making my own. The publishers sent me a copy of “Healthy Bread in Five Minutes a Day” and I’ve been playing with that. While I’m not in love with the master recipe (needs more salt, the flavor’s pretty bland, and the texture leans towards “gummy.”), it my sparked my curiosity. I’m on the hunt for a delicious whole grain bread recipe…if you’ve got one, please send it my way!

Over the past few months, it’s been quite a journey, examining my relationship with food. I’ve got the lowdown on restaurants and noteworthy chefs coast to coast, but when it came to nutrition and knowing my own body? I was clueless. This has definitely been a turning point.

Here’s to feeling better!

-----
Side note: At this point, I’m not ruling out Seasonal Affective Disorder as another factor in my health issues. In the dark, dreary months of winter, our bodies suffer from a lack of Vitamin D, normally obtained from sunlight exposure. Getting outside—even on an overcast day--can help. Going forward, I’ll be exercising and getting outside more, but I’m not ruling out the need for a lightbox.

* Until recently, I’ve never made a habit of eating breakfast. As I learn more, I realize how critical breakfast is, and I’ve become a big fan of oatmeal and cereals. Just as I was figuring out the link between feeling better and eating better, I received a sample of the Nature’s Path line. Nutrition and sustainability are a major focus for Nature’s Path, and that had a lot of appeal. While I’d steer clear of the Nature’s Path granola bars (gut bombs) and toaster pastries (a la pop tart), the cereals were a happy find. I tried everything—including the gluten-free offerings. All of them were winners. My favorites were the flax seed cereals and any of the granolas. If you’ve got kids in the house, the kid-focused cereals (Granola Munch) and flavored oatmeals will make even the most finicky eaters look forward to breakfast.

Vermont's Brattleboro Farmers Market

As a traveler, I fear the days of pulling off the freeway and having your pick of mom & pop joints are long gone. Today, travel in America has lost a certain amount of luster. Strip mall sameness from Tulsa to Tacoma...close your eyes and there are few markers to identify...you're not at home anymore.

Across the land, farmers markets have swelled in number and for me, reclaim that sense of travel wonder. While in Vermont, visiting author Crescent Dragonwagon, we made a point to stop at the farmers market. Nearby Brattleboro, Vermont boasts a destination-worthy gem. In contrast to Seattle's parking lot or blocked off street format, Brattleboro's farmers market take place in a grassy lot, complete with semi-permanent structures, picnic tables and a large sandbox for the kids. Short on hustle and bustle, it's the kind of place where you spend a few hours, bump into your neighbor, and share a homemade ginger ale.

Coincidentally, a book called "The Great Good Place" was my reading choice for this trip. "The Great Good Place" explores the sociological influences of a notion called the "third place" -- those spaces in our lives where we gather for community, including cafes, coffee shops, bookstores, bars, and hair salons. (Starbuck's CEO, Howard Schultz, was greatly influenced by this premise, and factored the "third place" concept in the design of their stores.) In Brattleboro, the farmers market is their "third place." Ripped straight out of a modern Norman Rockwell piece, it was heartwarming watching friends and neighbors reacquaint themselves after a snow-packed winter, followed by what the locals call "mud season". No question. Brattleboro's farmers market...is the heart of the community.

A large sandbox keeps the kids amused while parents shop or hang out near the perimeter and chat.

A hot cup of chai and Green Mountain Bluegrass makes for a perfect morning.

It took me a while to figure out...no, he wasn't with the band. Fiercely independent, this kid brought his guitar...looking to play pick up with the various musicians! He stole the show every time.

Massage? Why not!
Sign says "Dispositions Adjusted"

Back-of-the-truck lamb. Grass-finished, whole or halves. Pelts for sale too.

Got any idea what "Ham on Hay" is?

People here are serious about social justice and activism. Shirt says, "Dignity has no borders."

Drinks: Hot ginger milk tea, homemade ginger beer and a fabulous organic honeycomb sour. Eats: Pan fried dough, ho-made fish cakes, and Mexican grilled cheese.

Mile High club, Vermont-style. Beef, Lamb and Pork.

(notice the shaft of wheat tattooed on her arm?)

Vermont Maple Syrup blind tastings. He refused to tell me what grade we were trying, insisting I identify my favorite first, by taste. Fancy is the lightest grade in color and has the most delicate flavor while Grade A Dark is darker in color and has a more pronounced maple flavor. Because of the intensity in flavor, Grad A or B is best for baking.)

Bit of Trivia: Why is pure maple syrup so expensive? It takes 30 - 40 gallons of Maple tree sap to make 1 gallon of syrup (66.9% sucrose)

Related post:
I Remember...Springtime in Vermont

Book Review: Recipes from Heceta Head, Oregon's Lighthouse Bed and Breakfast

Wind sweeps across the Pacific Ocean, battering the rugged coastline with foam-flecked waves and sheets of rain. Defying the elements, gnarled Evergreens clutch weather-beaten cliffs, and refuse to fall into the sea. Rich with timber and easy access to salmon, this land has been home to traders and trappers for centuries.

Against this stormy backdrop, Heceta Head Lighthouse warns of the impending coastline. The adjacent Queen Anne-style homes with cranberry-colored shingles, housed the lighthouse lamplighters. Throughout the night, they worked in four hour shifts, manually keeping the flame alive.

Technology advanced and automation eventually eliminated the need for lamplighters. As the buildings deteriorated, local citizens fought to preserve these historic structures.

Enter: an innovative idea + the husband and wife team of Mike and Carol Korgan.

Today, an interpretive center sits on land owned by the U.S. Forest Service, and the lightkeeper residences have been converted into Heceta Head Bed & Breakfast. Mike and Carol played a crucial role in preserving these landmark buildings and served as the B&B’s first proprietors. Now retired, the torch has been passed to their daughter Michelle and her husband, Steven.

Oregon coast’s Heceta Head Lighthouse is one of the most photographed lighthouses in the world and the corresponding B&B is renowned for their seven-course breakfast. The Lighthouse Breakfast Cookbook (Westwiinds Press, 2009) documents the history of Heceta Head Lighthouse B&B, and reveals their most coveted recipes.

This book has become my secret weapon! Making regular appearances at brunch or as a light dessert, the Almond Butter Cake is my go-to recipe. Dense yet incredibly moist, its light kiss of sweetness makes this cake surprisingly versatile.

Included in the book is James Beard’s cheater version of Liver Pate. Beard, a former Oregon resident, once slipped Mike the recipe…and I made it immediately! The secret? A hearty mixture of liverwurst and cream cheese. Embellished with a dash of this and that, you’d never guess the origins, but trust me, it’s a welcome addition. Over the holidays, this Liver Pate was the first to go, every time. (Warning: double the recipe. You’ll want more!)

Chapters in the Light House Breakfast Cookbook follow Heceta Head B&B’s famed seven course breakfast menu: Fruit; Sweet Bread; Seafood; Frappes; Eggs; Meat; Dessert; Fruit & Cheese.

Composed Fruit salads make a welcome addition to entertaining menus as well as weekday breakfasts. In the Moroccan Fruit Salad, for example, the usual suspects of pear, apple and banana get a guild-the-lily flourish with orange flower water, mint & pomegranate seeds.

My one quibble lies solely in the Sweet Bread section. Each recipe makes three loaves. This is not a problem with tried & true recipes, but for the untested, it can be a risky maneuver. “Serve one loaf, freeze the other two” works great if you’ve got a winner. The Lemon Poppy Seed Bread was not a favorite. I had middle of the road results—not bad, but certainly not great--and I had three loves on my hands! Going forward, I’ll tread carefully in this section, and divide the recipes accordingly. (Portion sizes in other areas of the book are less risky, serving 6, on average.)

If you’re a seafood lover, you’ll want to keep this book close at hand. Wild Chinook Salmon Sweet Corn Cakes and the Oregon Dungeness Crab, Fennel, Orange and Avocado salad with Mango Curry Dressing were quick additions to my permanent files. Other recipes like Bay Shrimp Mousse and the Scallop and Bay Shrimp Seviche scream: easy entertaining with big flavor payoff.

In the seven-course lineup, frappes are served as palate cleansers. This section includes intriguing flavor combinations, such as: Strawberry, Candied Ginger and Fresh Mint; Hibiscus, Melon, and Wildflower Honey; and Pear with Orange Blossom Honey and Cardamom.

The Eggs chapter offers more than a few unexpected surprises. Imagine serving your houseguests Shirred Eggs with Oregon White Truffles or a Sweet Potato, Sage, and Juniper Grove Smoked Chevre Strata. Houseguests may never leave!

By Meats, they mean sausage, mostly. My first sausage-making foray was a revelation and I was thrilled to discover several new recipes in this book: Greek Lamb Sausage (with pine nuts, kalamata olives, and mint); Roasted Garlic Chicken Sausage; or the more exotic Thai Coconut Green Curry Chicken Sausage.

Desserts run the gamut from strudels (apple, poppy seed, or Marionberry), cakes (pound, almond butter, or cranberry upside down) to tarts (pear or lemon). While this is the longest chapter, some dishes do double duty as dessert or breakfast (crumbcake, crepes, or apple pancake).

The Fruit and Cheese chapter profiles local cheeses and serving suggestions. Whether you’ll be able to find these cheeses is debatable, but even if you substitute other varieties, the serving suggestions are worth exploring. “Siletz River Stones River’s Edge Chevre – This hand-ladled Crottin is full flavored and spiked with green peppercorns. The spicy surprise joins nicely with a pomegranate syrup and the clean, crispy textures of Asian pears.”

Ingredients for the majority of these recipes should be readily available nationwide. Worth noting are the few recipes that require special ingredients. Coconut Powder was new to me. Fortunately, the Special Ingredients Glossary explained “Just as the name describes, it is powdered coconut. Read the label before buying because some have added sugar or are just coconut-flavored powder. Coconut powder is fantastic for any application that calls for coconut milk when fresh coconut is not available. Just reconstitute the desired consistency.” A source or DYI alternative would have been nice. So far, the only place I’ve found coconut powder, sells it in a 10 pound box. (My guess: I’ll be able to replicate coconut powder with unsweetened dried coconut and a handy mini Cuisinart.)

The Resources section threw a spotlight on several new-to-me Oregon-based vendors (most with mail order capabilities). I’m looking forward to exploring GloryBee Foods (honey), Schondecken Coffee Roasters and the Oregon Lox Co.

Photos in the book are by San Diego-based Tim Mantoani. Plating at the B&B is individual, as opposed to buffet or family-style and the presentations come across well. A large majority of the images leap off the page and are mostly food-centric. A limited number of images are of the B&B’s interior, which is a little disappointing, and none of the dining room itself. Archival images and family photos lend themselves well to the historical context in the introduction.

I love local books that give a sense of place. The Lighthouse Breakfast Cookbook - Recipes from Heceta Head Lighthouse B&B offers well-crafted storytelling and recipes with an emphasis on local ingredients. Within these pages, there’s plenty to enjoy--even if you don’t have easy access to Dungeness Crab or Umpqua Oysters.

And if you’re yearning for a seaside respite with jaw-dropping views? Mosey along the Oregon stretch of Highway 101 and find your way to the Heceta Head Lighthouse B&B. Lull to sleep with the sound of sea and surf. But most important…save room for breakfast! Seven courses await you.

Cookbook Review: Asian Dumplings by Andrea Nguyen

Andrea Nguyen’s latest book, Asian Dumplings: Mastering Gyoza, Spring Rolls, Samosas, and More (Ten Speed Press, 2009) is a stunner, demystifying delectable dishes from Malaysia to Mongolia.

Recipes in Asian Dumplings span three distinct subregions of Asia—East Asia, Southeast Asia, and South Asia. The book’s chapters are divided according to technique: filled pastas; thin skins; stuffed buns; rich pastries, etc.

Nguyen’s introduction is exceptionally informative and provides a perfect primer for what lies ahead. Cornstarch, for example, is found in both doughs and fillings. She explains, “In Asian dumpling making, cornstarch is used to bind fillings and to make dough. The silky fine starch contributes resiliency to superthin wonton and eggroll skins and prevents them from sticking. Cornstarch and tapioca starch have similar thickening powers, but when used in rice-flour batters, they show subtle differences. Cornstarch adds a firm-but-chewy quality, and tapioca provides elasticity.” Nguyen’s recipes are equally well thought-out and will have you mastering homemade wonton wrappers in no time.

Images in the book are a smart combination of diagrams and photos. The illustrations include thorough steps for a variety of folding and wrapping techniques. Do you know the difference between a pea pod, nun’s cap, or crescent? Nguyen shows you, step-by-step.

The drool-worthy photography is by Penny De Los Santos, whose images frequent the pages of Saveur. Careful thought has been given to images that are not only beautiful, but informative. Styling and camera angles reveal seams (as in the samosa folding technique) and well-thought out vantage points illustrate dumpling pleating techniques. When you’re stuck midway through a recipe and panic is just beginning to set in, sure enough, there’s a diagram or a photo, revealing the end goal. (This is especially helpful since many of the dishes were completely new to me.)

Arm chair cooks and travelers…there’s plenty here for you, too! Recipe header notes provide wonderful insights, and often expand into the dish’s ethnic, regional or historical context. I was thrilled to discover a recipe for one of my favorite street-side snacks, Sesame Seed Balls (page 201). In the accompanying header notes, I learned that Sesame Seed Balls are a Chinese New Year Specialty and likely originated in the Tang Dynasty as palace food. Nguyen explains that the dish varies by country. In Canton, they are filled with sweetened red mung bean paste, but in Vietnam, they are typically filled with buttery mung beans, resulting in a flavor and texture similar to marzipan. Ground peanuts are another option. Recipes are included for all three fillings, along with a discussion on mung bean varieties.

Whether you’re a seasoned aficionado, or merely dumpling-curious, Nguyen’s Asian Dumplings is a fabulous resource. Approachable, yet informed, this book has a prominent spot in my collection. The Pork and Napa Cabbage Water Dumplings deliver big on flavor and I was surprised how easily the water and flour-based wrappers came together (So pleased with my results, I kept thinking, “Look, mom, I made it!”). Next on my list? I’m torn between the Chinese Char Siu Pork Buns or the Singapore Curry Puffs. Even better, why choose? Share the adventure…and host a dumpling-making party! With a wealth of textures and tastes, this book is a perfect excuse for social gatherings. Chill the Singha & invite your friends for a DYI dumpling feast!

Hungry for more? Check out:

Andrea Nguyen
Book: Into the Vietnamese Kitchen (Ten Speed Press, 2006)
Blog: http://www.vietworldkitchen.com/


Penny De Los Santos
Blog: http://pennydelossantos.wordpress.com/
Website: http://www.pennydelossantos.com/

Introducing: Books That Paved the Way

My journey through food has been inspired…and aided by the best in the business. While struggling to find my path, I received guidance and a bit of nurturing at every turn. Whether it was a heart-to-heart conversation by phone, or the invaluable legacies written on the page…the art of nourishing both mind and belly is not something these folks take lightly, and for that, I am grateful.

As Zora O’Neil’s mother says, “Mi corazon es gordo.”

My heart is fat.

On a whim, I sent note to friends and colleagues. “What are you five most influential books?” Inspired by numerous conversations, I was particularly interested in which books shaped their ideas about food, and what impact it had on them. Chefs, authors, publishers, and photographers from around the globe generously shared their thoughts. The result…is nothing short of astonishing.

And so, it is with a fat heart that today marks a new series here at Seattle Tall Poppy….Books that Paved the Way. Among these words of wisdom, I hope you find a bit of insight, a heafty dose of inspiration and above all, a fat heart.

Julia Usher's Cookie Swap

Once upon a time, I aspired to become a professional baker. I read stacks of books, took classes from the best in the biz, and staged at a well-known bakery. Before long, I realized baking for business and baking for pleasure are two very different things….

While that dream went on the back burner, it’s not entirely extinguished. How do I know? I cracked open Julia Usher’s Cookie Swap and whoosh! Before I knew it, my grocery cart was loaded with 10 pounds of butter. Preheat the oven….I’m ready!

Like me, Julia’s career has taken some twists and turns. While she holds a degree in mechanical engineering (Yale University) and an MBA (Stanford University), eventually, she ditched the corporate job and opened a successful bakery in St. Louis. Precision and an analytical mindset has served her well. Detailed, but delicious wedding cakes and fanciful desserts were at the heart of her business.

Her first book, Cookie Swap: Creative Treats to Share Throughout the Year, was released in August 2009. It’s already in its fifth printing…and for good reason.

Usher’s book is like no other.

In another life, I imagine she and Julia Child would have been good friends. Usher is obsessive about the details…and the benefit is all ours. Cookie Swap is jam-packed with tips. The opening pages include notes on working with the seven basic cookie types (bar, drop, hand-shaped, icebox, pressed or piped, rolled and sandwiched). And the spreadsheet-style resource guide is an invaluable resource.

The photos are shot in scene-scape sets that give the likes of Sandra Lee and Martha Stewart a bad name, but if you’re secretly a closet crafter, Cookie Swap offers inspiration galore! While I can honestly say, I’ve never had a desire to build a wreath out of sugar cookies, or make a gingerbread house (haunted or otherwise), step by step, Usher makes the fanciful…approachable. (Note: Beginning on page 152, Usher includes an insightful overview on eleven cutout cookie decorating techniques—marbling, flooding, beadwork, appliqué…it’s all there.)

Not the crafty type? Me either. Usher approaches her recipes with the same meticulous detail, offering a broad selection of cookies—including a few surprises. (I must confess…yes! I want to make those marshmallow Peeps.)

Flavor profiles range from kid-friendly to sophisticated (Lemon-Thyme Bon Bons.) Buttery with a hit of citrus, the Orange Shortbread, a component on the Tiers of Joy cookie-cum-wedding cake, was delicious on its own. And the Bourbon-infused Eggnog Cheesecake Streusel Bars are a holiday hit.

Beyond all the window dressing, Cookie Swap, offers solid recipes with insightful tips on technique. And if you’re up for luster dust and gilding shortbread lily? Julia Usher’s your guide.

Forking Fantastic! Love, Garlic and Duck Fat

I love a good party…and in New York, you’d sell your soul for a seat at Sunday Supper. For years, those ‘in the know’ hopped the N train to Astoria, to feast at Zora O’Neil and Tamara Reynolds’ table.

Trekking to New York for dinner a bit of a stretch?

Me too.

Rest assured, if a book could read like a great laugh-out-loud party, “Forking Fantastic” is it! Pour yourself a tall glass and settle in for a good time.

My first dinner party inclinations…I had visions of Martha Stewart--polished silver, a sea of sparkling wine glasses, and double check my notes: what was the perfect height for flower arrangements? Emphasis on the “perfect” accoutrements, left me far too intimidated. I was a closet party planner, dying to give it a whirl. For years, I’ve needed a book exactly like “Forking Fantastic!”: a how-to guide that liberated us from my mamma’s generation & their stuffy rules for entertaining. News flash: Camelot is dead. And so is Jackie O.

Sassy and irreverent “Forking Fantastic” is the wanna-be-entertainer’s reality check. No, your plates don’t have to match. Stemware? How ‘bout a Mason jar. (If it holds liquid, it’s good enough for a beverage.) To ease the budget, implement a bring-your-own-wine policy: “Feel free to bring two bottles. We do.”

When I finally took the plunge and started entertaining regularly, I struggled with issues like, “Is it cheesy to ask your friends to kick in money for dinner?” Zora & Tamara’s take on it: “Donations… kept us from resenting all our hungry friends when it came time to write the rent check.”

Honestly? I’ve got unabashed big love for this book. Designed with a set of menus that begin easy and grows progressively more challenging (complete with directions on roasting a whole lamb AND a DYI set of instructions for constructing the grill), this book also offers invaluable planning insights: You need a Ta-Da! dish, not a whole dinner. Showstopper dishes are like needy children--they take the bulk of your effort and/or cash, so balance the meal with dishes that take less work and stretch the budget.

“Throwing a dinner party is not an exercise in creating a tabletop wonderland, nor is it about imitating the formality and frills of a restaurant... The best ‘tablescape’ has food in it and your friends seated around the edges.”

Other gems of advice:

Butter up your purveyors. “Ethics, fairness and customer service bullshit aside, there is always secret ‘good stuff’ either in the back or right under your nose that the vendor knows about but you don’t. And they love, love, love to share that with their favorite customers.”

Double or triple a recipe? Watch your timing. Even simple things like washing salad greens can take longer than expected, and throw your schedule out of whack. Handmade pasta for 20? Plan for ingredients AND labor.

The Hour of Self Loathing: “The doorbell is ringing, your hands are covered in chicken grease and the only thing you’ve made is the salad dressing.” Kick everyone out of the kitchen, crank the music, “buckle down and work through the blind panic, resisting the urge to curl up in a fetal ball on the kitchen floor.”

Scooby Snacks: Keep the impatient hoards out of your kitchen with a “little snacky treat,” ready when guests arrive: a couple good cheeses, fresh figs, spicy nuts or radishes with butter and salt.

Your Kitchen, Your Choice: “In the age of low-carb and gluten-sensitivities…what’s a fledgling hostess to do? Don’t ask. Your guests won’t die or have a horrible time if they don’t get to eat one of the dishes.”

Recipes? With gems like “Duck Fat Grilled Peaches” how can you go wrong?

Zora, Tamara…I’ll belly up to your table any day!

----
Forking Fantastic! Put the Party Back in Dinner Party
By Zora O’Neil and Tamara Reynolds
Gotham Books, October 2009
Published by Penguin Group (USA) Inc.

Interview with "Will Write for Food" Author Dianne Jacob

When I began writing this blog, all roads pointed to Dianne Jacob, author of "Will Write for Food".

I sought sage advice from a long-time mentor. Snatched from her bedside was a worn copy of "Will Write for Food." Dog eared, with a spine long-since cracked, she said pointed a finger to the tattered cover and said, "Study this book." She locked eyes with me and spoke deliberately, "Don't just read it, I want you to study this book. You understand the difference, right?"

"Swallow that book whole," was the advice of another author.

Today, my own tattered copy has copious notes along the margins, blue ink underscores the better part of the book, and furled Post-its mark my favorite passages.


I had an opportunity to talk with Dianne and frankly, I got schooled. Dianne is a seasoned pro who is both insightful and generous with her knowledge. Our conversation ranges the gamut--from the current state of magazine content to finding your voice. The most important lesson I learned from Dianne? Show. Don't tell.

And if you're heading to BlogHer in San Francisco, you're in for a treat! Don't miss Dianne's panel discussion on "The Meaning of Identity and the Value of Voice in a Crowded Foodblogging World."

Traca: A number of food blogs have spurned books in recent years. Food blogging and memoir share similar traits, yes?

Dianne: They do because food blogging is first person and memoir is first person. They’re definitely linked, but that doesn’t mean that they’re the same. You can’t just take 25 posts from your blog and therefore it becomes a memoir. That doesn’t work.

Memoir is considered literary narrative and it has to read like a novel. So it needs a cast of characters, dialog, action, and it has a story arc, which is what novels and good literary non-fiction have. That’s why collecting your posts doesn’t translate into a well-crafted story.

Traca: What are your thoughts on books that have been largely based on extrapolated content from a blog?

Dianne: They’ve been massaged. They have to be worked into a story that has a beginning, middle and end. Julie & Julia was perfect for memoir because memoir typically is about a certain time—not about your whole life and everything you ever did. It’s about picking one thing and focusing on it. The focus was to cook her way through Mastering The Art of French Cooking over one year. It wasn’t just, “I hate my job. Tonight I’ll make doughnuts.” There was a plan. It fits very nicely into memoir because it happened over a specific period of time. When you decide to write memoir, you also need to know what happens at the end. She knew she was going to finish cooking her way through the book, even if there were some crises along the way.

A memoir is not about everything that happened. The story idea has to be pretty tight. Usually memoir has universal themes that everyone can relate to, like being bored in your job, going on a new adventure, or falling in love. People can identify and say, “Yeah, I’ve been through that. That happened to me!”

It’s told as a story, which is different than writing a post. Posts are short, and they’re not usually serial. They’re serial in terms of chronology but they don’t necessarily build on each other or have the same theme.

With posts you have the freedom to jump around, but with a book, that doesn’t work. The book loses focus. As an example, I talked with someone the other day who said she wanted to have a blog about cooking for her kid. I went to her blog and found a movie review, a cookbook review, and content that had nothing to do with her (stated) subject. She said, “It’s all about food.” Yes, but it’s not focused.

When you write about anything to do with food, then you can’t really describe what your blog is about.

Traca: That’s a great point. I was talking with another blogger whose work feels more like a magazine because it covers a range of topics. But she’s having difficulty finding advertisers because it doesn’t fulfill a specific niche.

Dianne: Right. A blog about everything doesn’t have a subject. If you say “food” it’s just too broad.

Traca: There’s a recent wave of journalists starting blogs. That’s an interesting role-reversal. What are your thoughts on that?

Dianne: Journalists who have jobs on newspapers have been asked to start blogs, and freelance journalists have started them as well, as a way to keep up.

The thing for journalists is that they’re not used to writing in first person or expressing their opinion, unless they’re reviewers. Aside from the technical challenges, it’s a pretty big shift.

I know when I started writing first person essays, I found it intrusive. I was used to reporting on someone else’s story, like a chef profile or an interview. I was not a part of the story and what I thought was not relevant. So to go from that, to writing about, say, what my mother made when I was growing up, it felt like I was exposing myself. Of course, as we have learned in blogs, there’s no subject too private these days. Maybe a little privacy would be called for.

Traca: There are so many elements to blogging: keeping it short and focused, and adding the photography element to it. The number of skills necessary to have a worthwhile blog is astounding.

Dianne: The first blogs were text-heavy journals and photography wasn’t something you were expected to know how to do. The disciplines were more separated. You were either a writer or a photographer.

When I was in journalism school, however, the goal was to work for a small newspaper, where you were expected to take photos as well as report. I had to buy a Nikon 35 ml camera and shoot and develop my own black & white photos. When I got to my first job, I had to take photos good enough to be published. That was a little scary. I got a front page photo and I was so excited. It only happened once!

Traca: I’m intrigued by interviewing different purveyors, chefs and writers. From my perspective, it’s been really difficult to try to shoot photos, conduct an interview, and hopefully take some notes. I feel like I’m running a three-ring circus!

Dianne: Yes, it can seem that way. I don’t take photos while I’m interviewing. Usually I do it afterwards, once they’ve met me and are more amenable. People just naturally want to pose. So instead of saying, “I don’t want a posed shot,” you take pictures of them posing and after a while, they get bored with that. Then they’ll do something more interesting. You take pictures of that…and that’s what you use.

Traca: What advice would you give to bloggers who are aspiring to be professional writers? Can you talk about the reality of being a professional writer?

Dianne: A writer is an artist, and once you think that, the phrase that most frequently comes up is “starving artist.” It’s not the kind of field where you can make much money, like in business, tech or marking writing. It’s pretty difficult to make a living as a free-lance food writer, I know some people who do it, but they work very, very hard. And they don’t live in New York because it’s too expensive.

It’s pretty tough out there right now because ads are down in magazines—and that’s what determines the size of the book (number of pages.) I used to be a magazine editor. I never knew how may pages of editorial I would have to fill until after the ad deadline closed. These days, with ad sales down, there’s less room for long stories.

I was just at the Greenbrier and the food editor for Cooking Light was there. She showed us a long narrative that they published a year ago. And she said they probably wouldn’t publish a story like that now. Instead, they’d publish a shorter feature, cut into more pieces.

If you’re going to pitch stories, you need to pitch things that are more broken up.

Traca: What do you mean by writing stories that are “broken up”?

Dianne: Articles that have sidebars, text boxes, lists, charts, graphs or photo essays. Stop thinking about a piece that’s just one long story. You have to visualize the article from a design standpoint, as a bunch of pieces.

Someone who’s doing that really well is Martha Holmberg, the editor of Mix magazine and the Food Section for the Oregonian newspaper. People have short attention spans, big time! She said, “I think there’s two different forces: 1. There isn’t the space to write a long story anymore, and 2. People are distracted.” That’s the feedback that Cooking Light got back from their research too. Readers want information in little bits.

Traca: Would that mean the writer would provide a piece with 700 – 1000 words, plus sidebar content?

Dianne: No, 1,000 words is too long now. Think about building a piece where all the same information is there, but cut it up.

Traca: With the trend towards shorter pieces, that would also have a financial impact, right? Shorter pieces mean less money?

Dianne: That’s right!

An example that crossed my desk: I heard about a magazine freelancer who told an editor she would write for the perks—hotel stays, dinners, etc. in exchange for doing a story. She’d rather write the piece for free than not do a story at all. She was pitching that to the editor as a way to save money.

I don’t like people working for free and I don’t advise it. I just don’t understand why people should have to work for nothing. I don’t think it’s respectful to take advantage when you’re an editor. But people do it because they want a byline, especially when they’re breaking in.


The question is: How much can you get paid? Maybe you don’t work for very much the first time, but if you build a relationship with the editor and you figure out what the publication wants—and you give it to them on time, with clean copy, then you can ask for more. I coached someone who was writing a column for a national newsletter for only $25. I made him ask for a raise and he got it.

Traca: In your book, you advise writers to “show” not “tell”. Can you expand on that?

Dianne: If you say, “The chef tasted my apple pie and he loved it.” Tell.

If you say, “When the chef bit into my apple pie, her eyes opened wide and she mimed falling over in a swoon.” That means that she loved it but now you’ve given the reader a visual picture of what’s going on. Now the reader can imagine something.

In the first example, there’s nothing for the reader to imagine. They don’t know what that means. You see the difference?

One reason why I’ve always loved to read, is because I love the idea that there’s a movie going on in my head the whole time. I can’t generate the movie if I don’t have any images.

Traca: Blogging is so photo-intensive. In some ways, I think I’m handicapped by that. Now I’m trying to write a story as if the image wasn’t there, then supporting the story with an image.

Dianne: That’s a good exercise. The image should bring information that’s not available in the text. If it’s redundant, there’s not a whole lot of point to including it. These days, it seems like a lot of food blogs put the focus on the photography and then include one sentence about the event. That style makes the reader do a lot of work, because they don’t have enough context about the event.

Traca: Showing as opposed to telling is very personal—making observations, inferring on their behalf what’s happening. At some point it crosses my mind, “Would they be upset by that observation?” I’m struggling with the fact that this is my experience and it’s my take on it.

Dianne: That’s what reporting is all about. Reporting is about observing and being able to capture that for the reader. That’s what’s different about writing in first person, where it’s only about you and your experience. Somewhere in there is the balance that every blogger has to find, because you are not only reporting but recording your responses and opinions.

I don’t think it’s very interesting to only write about yourself. After a while the reader is going to say, “Well, how exciting for you!” They’re not drawn into the story. You have to use all these literary devices like “show not tell,” similes and metaphor to draw people into the story. Your ability to observe is another, to let readers imagine the scene. Give the reader an opportunity to be a part of the story.

Traca: Drawing the reader into the story…that’s a huge challenge, yes?

Dianne: As soon as you want someone to read your work, you’ve got to give them a reason to do so. Sometimes it’s a simple as acknowledging the other person exists. Otherwise you might as well be writing in your diary.

It can’t just be, “Here’s what I did today.” I think that’s why people hesitate—rightfully so—about starting a blog. When they ask themselves, “Why should anyone care about what I have to say?” That’s a good question! Your job is to make them care about what you say.

Traca: Whose writing resonates with you?

Dianne: I truly admire Ruth Reichl. In fact, when I was at the Greenbrier, we were doing a voice exercise with Don Fry. I attended the Greenbrier 10 years ago and I told him that I admired Molly O’Neil and I wanted to write like her. He told me to analyze what she wrote and try to channel her by exaggerating her voice. This time I tried to channel Ruth Reichl. That exercise forced me to look at her technique. She’s very dramatic. Don Fry said she has “a lot of violence” in her writing. There are a lot of pronouncements about life. I tried writing in that way and I was pleasantly surprised.

I also adore New Yorker writer Calvin Trillin. Whenever he goes to a town, Calvin said someone always wants to take him to their favorite restaurant. He calls it a “Ma Casa De La Maison House”. Isn’t that brilliant?

It’s his power of description. There’s a story he wrote about a huge man called, “Fat: The ordeal of Fats Goldberg, a Pizza Baron.” Let me read you this and you can see an example of simile: “When he was visiting our house one day, long after he had forbidden himself to eat cake, we wondered why he kept wandering into the kitchen. Then Alice remembered there was a cake on the kitchen counter. Fats had been prowling back and forth in front of it like a tiger circling a tethered goat.” Similes start with “like a…” It’s not an image you would expect in a story about a cake tempting a man on a diet, but it’s immediately visceral, where he has anthropomorphized the cake, making it into an animal that can’t get away.

Traca: I loved your analysis of that piece.

Dianne: I love to break down a piece to find out why it works…that’s what you need to do. If you like someone’s writing you need to figure out why.

I love Laurie Colwin’s writing also. It’s not pretentious. It’s like she’s your friend. Very homey. But she’s very different from Ruth Reichl. Ruth Reichl is nakedly ambitious in her writing. I don’t mean that in a negative way…I admire that about her.

Traca: Writers whose voice is so clear that it’s not interchangeable…that’s fascinating to me. Crafting your own voice is another challenge that also seems psychological. It begs the question, “Who am I?”

Dianne: That’s why I suggest in the book to have your friends describe your personality to you. That will also be your voice.

***

Dianne Jacob’s blog, Will Write for Food: Pithy Snippets about Food Writing, covers food writing trends and technique. She started it in 2009 as a way to update her book, Will Write for Food: The Complete Guide to Writing Cookbooks, Restaurant Reviews, Articles, Memoir, Fiction, and More. Now in its fourth printing, the book won the Cordon D’Or International award for Best Literary Food Reference Book. Will Write for Food is used as a textbook at the Culinary Institute of America and in many other classrooms across the US.

Her most recent book is Grilled Pizzas & Piadinas, a cookbook she co-authored with chef Craig Priebe.

Previously a newspaper, magazine, and publishing company editor-in-chief, Dianne has been self-employed since 1996 as a writing coach, author, and freelance editor. She coaches writers across the US, Canada and Europe on writing and publishing books, freelance articles, and blogs.

Dianne judges for the James Beard Foundation and for the International Association of Culinary Professionals annual cookbook awards. She is also a regular judge for the Bert Greene Award for Food Journalism. A feature she wrote about food blogs was a finalist for an award in 2007.

She teaches classes on food writing and book publishing at Book Passage in Corte Madera, The Writing Salon in San Francisco and Berkeley, and Leite’s Culinaria. She has also taught for the Smithsonian and UCLA’s Journalism Department. See her website for more information.